Posted: Thu Mar 22, 2012 19:19 Post subject: 3.2 did rough running in gear when hot
OK update after 5 garages.
EGR valve blanked and now smoking under control. Probably a second fault.
The main fault is
Starts on the button, drives better than ever. This is a 2001 3.2did but only has 60k on the clock.
When warm it will idle fine just as if cold. It revs as much as you like, very smooth.
Put it in drive or reverse and although this is a diesel the symptoms would be perfectly described as if you had taken a spark plug lead off of a petrol model.
Drive off and the rough running slowly disappears as the revs and speed build.
It drives fine, accelerates very easily.
I have had the gear box thoroughly tested as one garage thought it was a torque converter. Gear box ok.
Another garage suggested diesel pump. The test was to drive it for about a mile at about 85-90 when warm then put my foot to the floor. If the acceleration hesitated then the pump was suspect. Also to stop the engine when warm and restart after 20 seconds. If it took several turns to start then the pump was faulty.
No problems at all ran like a dream.
Pull up at a junction then the rough running starts again. Into neutral it stops.
Its as if it was a petrol car with a faulty choke or similar. It only does it in gear and only when warm.
i have seen a similar post that suggests a throttle setting may be wrong, closing the butterfly too much when warm.
Any thoughts please. last chance before the tip now I think.
One garage wants to adjust the tappets, another check the injectors. None of these seem to be logical as it runs perfectly in neutral cold and hot and runs perfectly from about 25 - 95.
Posted: Sat Mar 24, 2012 11:47 Post subject: rough idle
I have a 1997 2.8 diesel and it has started to idle poorly recently until now when its warm if i pull up it almost stalls, then the other day changed in to reverse and it did stall. When cold all is ok, when Air Con is switched on revs increase as they should.
I have now noticed that my temp guage is all over the place, so i suspect a faulty sender. I'm now wondering if this is sending a false reading to the ECU, which as I have the later model truck has an electronic fuel pump, maybe running rich or something making it idle badly when warm?
The two may not be connected
Posted: Sat Mar 24, 2012 11:47 Post subject: rough idle
I have a 1997 2.8 diesel and it has started to idle poorly recently until now when its warm if i pull up it almost stalls, then the other day changed in to reverse and it did stall. When cold all is ok, when Air Con is switched on revs increase as they should.
I have now noticed that my temp guage is all over the place, so i suspect a faulty sender. I'm now wondering if this is sending a false reading to the ECU, which as I have the later model truck has an electronic fuel pump, maybe running rich or something making it idle badly when warm?
The two may not be connected
Sounds similar. Every garage want s to change something big without checking the little bits.
I think i am going to change some sensors first. My vehicle doesnt stall it just makes the engine jump about on its mountings. All very frustrating. No fault codes at all.
I have not had the battery off. I have read something about this learning process so I may give it a go. However it seems that the A/C needs to be operated. Mine has not worked for sometime. It stopped working and I have never had it repaired. I did try it the other day and at idle with the engine cold so it idles ok I switched it on. No cold air and also I noticed that the revs did not change at all.
If I am going to do this idle learning routine, presumably I will have to get the a/c fixed first.
1. idle diaphragm - gets activated at warm idle to allow less air in - apparently it reduces noise. The vacuum tube can't just be blocked as it throws a CEL.
2. Engine kill diaphragm - it shuts the throttle body completely for a few seconds when the engine is turned off to aid in an instant kill of the engine without the shudder that was a "feature" of older diesels.
The adjustment screw sets how much air is going in at warm idle. Clockwise will allow less air and vice versa.
Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2012 18:06 Post subject: Running Rough
My 3.2 did just started running rough ... so i checked the the idle diaphragm and hey presto the adjusting nut was about to fall out, Screwed it in to where the thread looked clean and the car runs great.
It was starting to smoke quit a lot (White Smoke) so i disconnected the battery for 20 mins and now its back to normal ....GREAT Information many thanks
Does anyone know the correct set up procedure for this unit ... I was just wondering if there is a right way to do it rather than rely on using the old marks on the screw and lock nut
Posted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 12:28 Post subject: Re: 3.2 did rough running in gear when hot
madmiller wrote:
OK update after 5 garages.
EGR valve blanked and now smoking under control. Probably a second fault.
The main fault is
Starts on the button, drives better than ever. This is a 2001 3.2did but only has 60k on the clock.
When warm it will idle fine just as if cold. It revs as much as you like, very smooth.
Put it in drive or reverse and although this is a diesel the symptoms would be perfectly described as if you had taken a spark plug lead off of a petrol model.
Drive off and the rough running slowly disappears as the revs and speed build.
It drives fine, accelerates very easily.
I have had the gear box thoroughly tested as one garage thought it was a torque converter. Gear box ok.
Another garage suggested diesel pump. The test was to drive it for about a mile at about 85-90 when warm then put my foot to the floor. If the acceleration hesitated then the pump was suspect. Also to stop the engine when warm and restart after 20 seconds. If it took several turns to start then the pump was faulty.
No problems at all ran like a dream.
Pull up at a junction then the rough running starts again. Into neutral it stops.
Its as if it was a petrol car with a faulty choke or similar. It only does it in gear and only when warm.
i have seen a similar post that suggests a throttle setting may be wrong, closing the butterfly too much when warm.
Any thoughts please. last chance before the tip now I think.
One garage wants to adjust the tappets, another check the injectors. None of these seem to be logical as it runs perfectly in neutral cold and hot and runs perfectly from about 25 - 95.
Heellllpppp!
I just bought 188k Miles driven Shogun from UK that developed this exact problem right after the deal :/
There's one additional flavor though, which may or may not be related. I was perhaps the first one to actually put the car on 4WD (at least tow bar had never been used) and I got this error code 35 form transfer ECU. This code is Free wheel engage system fault, but it could also relate to the vacuum switch or some such. I haven't got the MUT-II or MUT-III to check if there are additional error codes. This is perhaps a symptom of something rather than root cause.
Other than that transfer error code the problem is really similar. Car runs just great while cold, but as soon as I have driven 5-10 miles city driving, it starts to act up. When I've got gear on (D or reverse) and standing still or going crawling pace, it starts to push black smoke and you can feel the uneven running of the engine or transmission. As soon as I put gear on neutral it runs just fine. In higher speed it is also OK. If I stand still for awhile while in D, it goes gradually better (or it used to be much worse) but it starts to put up black smoke as soon as I turn wheel so that power steering kicks in.
I find it curious if the problem would be the free wheel engage system as it happens also when the vehicle is not moving and as far as I can tell, nothing should be moving in the differential while it is standing still...
Age: 56 Zodiac: Joined: 22 Nov 2008 Posts: 3357 Location: On the beach, surfin? Down under, NSW!
Posted: Thu Apr 25, 2013 13:12 Post subject:
madmiller wrote:
Hi Chris,
Sounds similar. Every garage want s to change something big without checking the little bits.
I think i am going to change some sensors first. My vehicle doesnt stall it just makes the engine jump about on its mountings. All very frustrating. No fault codes at all.
Sorru I missed this post.
One of the first things I would check is the condition of the fuel filler pipes from the cap to the tank. There is the main one and a few breather pipes under the plastic cover. If these have failed then you need to start thinking about pump damage. The jumping about will be caused by diesel knock due to incomplete fueling..
Mud and wet crud gather and rot the pipework letting moisture into the fuel tank which the gets to the pump and damage done.
I've been there and had the bills!
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