2Gether Insurance 01945 585322

The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners ClubŪ
The Mitsubishi Pajero, Shogun, Montero, Challenger, Raider and EVO 4x4 Owner's Club
 
The POCUK - it's not just a Club, it's a way of life!

 FAQFAQ   SearchSearch   Watched TopicsWatched Topics   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups   RegisterRegister 
 ProfileProfile   Log in to check your personal messagesLog in to check your personal messages   Log inLog in 
Click here to link to the Pajero Owners Club UK FaceBook Group!POCUK FaceBook Group  POCUK home pagePOCUK Home  POCUK ForumsPOCUK Forums  CalendarCalendar

6G74 engine clicking noise - fan, idlers, or something else?


 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners ClubŪ Forum Index -> Main technical forum
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
iam_TJ
LifeTime Member
LifeTime Member




Joined: 10 Apr 2013
Posts: 351
Location: Europe

PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2023 17:38    Post subject: 6G74 engine clicking noise - fan, idlers, or something else? Reply with quote

I've been noticing over the last few months what I originally thought was a noisy tappet that is especially noticeable at start-up and idle tick-over.

It has got louder recently and I noticed it seemed to coincide with when the viscous fan is operating so did some reading in the forums about the fan, read the thread about removing it and refilling with silicon oil that also describes that the fan is usually locked up at cold start until the oil has been spun out by centrifugal force:

http://www.pocuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=164411

After having a mechanic friend take a listen and poke around he thinks one or more of the idlers needs a new bearing. Certainly the top-right (looking from front of vehicle) has some forward/backward play.

I would like some advice as to whether my plan to deal with this is correct, if it should be done differently, and if there's anything else I should do whilst at it ?

1. Remove viscous fan and clutch
2. Listen for ticking noise
3. Remove fan belt
4. Listen for ticking noise (do not run engine for more than 2 minutes due to no water pump operating)
5. Test each idler for play (how much is acceptable, if any?)
6. Remove idlers and possibly tensioner
7. Replace idler bearings and service tensioner
8. Refit idlers and tensioner
9. Fit new fan belt
10. Clean and test fan clutch
11. Refill with 100ml silicon oil 10000cSt
12. Refit clutch and fan

Mechanic friend tells me I could either use a local bearing specialist or else possibly find a complete idler (tensioner?)) kit - advice on this please.

Should the fan be freely rotatable when the engine is off (it is currently) ?
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Google
Sponsor







PostPosted: Sat Jul 29, 2023 17:38    Post subject: Google Ads keep the POCUK free to join!


Back to top
radiomike
******
******




Joined: 04 Aug 2010
Posts: 1483
Location: North Bucks

PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2023 11:09    Post subject: Reply with quote

You are on the right lines, remove the fan belt and see if the noise has gone. Worn idler bearings tend to whir and grumble rather than tick, spin each one and listen for noise. Don't forget there is a tensioner and idler on the cambelt which could also be worn, when was the cambelt last changed?
The main cause of ticking on the V6 is the hydraulic tappets which tend to be noisy on start up and behave once warm, they don't like dirty oil or the wrong grade.
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
iam_TJ
LifeTime Member
LifeTime Member




Joined: 10 Apr 2013
Posts: 351
Location: Europe

PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2023 11:40    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks. I originally did think it was a noisy tappet but simple audio-location does seem to confirm the source is the very front, lower, area of the engine around the fan or belt. I do regular oil changes including flushing and oil is good and correct specification.

I'm not sure when the cam belt was changed and it has been on my list to do 'just-in-case'. Vehicle is currently on 105k miles; I got it at around 92K in 2020 in extremely good condition. It had done 60k in 1st 3 years (2003-2006) and then  ~33k between 2006 and 2020 and I've done the remaining 12k since.

Whilst on the subject of cam-belt - is it possible to change it on-vehicle after removing fan, fan-belt, etc., without removing the radiators? This has been the only thing making me hesitate.
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
radiomike
******
******




Joined: 04 Aug 2010
Posts: 1483
Location: North Bucks

PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2023 13:24    Post subject: Reply with quote

iam_TJ wrote:
Whilst on the subject of cam-belt - is it possible to change it on-vehicle after removing fan, fan-belt, etc., without removing the radiators? This has been the only thing making me hesitate.


Yes, loads of space without removing the rad, just cover it with a thick sheet of cardboard. If you decide to go ahead give me a shout as there a couple of pitfalls along the way that are not immediately obvious.
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
iam_TJ
LifeTime Member
LifeTime Member




Joined: 10 Apr 2013
Posts: 351
Location: Europe

PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2023 13:31    Post subject: Reply with quote

radiomike wrote:
Yes, loads of space without removing the rad, just cover it with a thick sheet of cardboard. If you decide to go ahead give me a shout as there a couple of pitfalls along the way that are not immediately obvious.


Thank-you; that is very much appreciated. I shall discuss with my (farm) mechanic-friend since he has offered assistance.

My main concern is ensuring I have bought all the correct replacement parts before the job starts AND that I understand which existing parts might need repairs whilst removed (e.g. bearings, tensioner parts) so I can plan for the off-road time and not get caught out.

I'll  read the workshop manual and the Haynes and Peter Russek manuals so I'm clear on what it entails!
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
iam_TJ
LifeTime Member
LifeTime Member




Joined: 10 Apr 2013
Posts: 351
Location: Europe

PostPosted: Tue Aug 01, 2023 17:48    Post subject: Reply with quote

I decided to record a video (and audio of course!) to demonstrate the noise. After a few minutes I decided to include some stop-restarts and noticed the noise begins about 10 seconds after starting. I then had the bright idea to switch off the air-conditioning and the noise goes away!

So, different problem to what I thought. I still need to change timing belt and fan belt and possibly the fan-belt top idler that has some sign of movement on its shaft.

So now to discover what is causing the noise and how complicated and expensive it is going to be!

Here's an excerpt from the video; I switch the air-conditioner on at 21 seconds and off then on again at 27 seconds.

https://iam.tj/shogun/Shogun-6G74-GDI-Noisy-AirCon-Compressor.2.mp4
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
cheriedavy
Newbie
Newbie


Age: 24
Zodiac: Pisces
Joined: 27 Jul 2023
Posts: 1
Location: UK

PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2023 21:45    Post subject: Reply with quote

This data is really fruitful.
Thanks!
Back to top
View user's profile Send personal message
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners ClubŪ Forum Index -> Main technical forum All times are GMT + 1 Hour
Page 1 of 1

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You cannot download files in this forum


All contents © Hobson's Choice IT Solutions Ltd 1997 on
Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2002 phpBB Group