The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners Club®

Phaeton · Posted: Sat Sep 09, 2023 19:40 Post subject: Flashing Diff Light

It's a 2003 3.2D Elegance LWB Auto

Daughter rang to say the orange diff light was flashing

Reading other posts seem to indicate that it will be the 5 switches on the transfer box. I've pulled them all out & tested them, they all test less than 0.5ohm to ground, which I can't see as being an issue, unless somebody knows better?

Currently the box is sat with 2 switches to ground, 2WD & the 2/4WD, other 3 are open. Moving the 2H/4H lever makes no difference at all, is that a mechanical lever or does it just move some switches? It will go into gear but makes a clunk when it does.

The other thing I have noticed is the the gear indicator selector is not lit up, in any position on the dash, no idea if that is related?

I did find a post on a forum to say that they had found the fault in the fuse box under the bonnet, but I have tested all the fuses under the bonnet & in the stupid place by the drivers door & they all appear to be good.

I've also pulled of the front diff switch & that appears to be good as well, on that how easy should it be to move the rod it seems solid currently

I did find a vacumn line that was open, looked like something had recently come off it, so for now I've just blanked it off, I can't add an image by the looks of it.

Also shorted out pins 1 & 4 & I believe the error is showing as 21 I do have a short video but no idea how to post it, again searching seems to indicate a engine speed sensor open circuit, but no clue as to where to look

Anyway help would be really apprciated, the drivetrain has never been an issue before, able to select all gears & modes, including rear diff lock.

Google · Sponsor

iam_TJ · Posted: Sat Sep 09, 2023 20:04 Post subject:

Regarding 2H 4H. that controls a small vacuum operated actuator connected to the transfer box at front-left. The default state is 4WD and 2H causes the actuator to pull the lever that activates the clutch. Is 2WD being activated (front wheels not driven) when it is in 2H ?

The Actuator is easy to get to if you remove the engine protection pan underneath. The actuator is slightly left of centre and its shaft points towards the left wheel and is covered with a corrugated rubber gaiter.

I replaced it for about £25 in 2021; it takes about 20 minutes.

Photos from then:

https://iam.tj/shogun/4WD-Actuator/

Phaeton · Posted: Sat Sep 09, 2023 20:52 Post subject:

iam_TJ · Posted: Sun Sep 10, 2023 23:36 Post subject:

A while since I had it apart so memory may be faulty. As far as I recall before loosening any fixings, but with the gaiter pushed back, I was able to slightly move the rod in/out but I don't think enough to engage/disengage (since engine not running!). There's a small pin joins the rod from the transfer box to the rod on the actuator - I seem to recall once that was removed I was able to move the rod on the actuator before removing the actuator (pulling the two rubber vacuum hoses of the metal and plastic spigots and then removing the retaining bolts).

Phaeton · Posted: Mon Sep 11, 2023 7:51 Post subject:

Thank you @iamTJ I ended up jacking up the front wheels & the rod does slide, the diff operates as expected you have to rotate the wheels slightly to get it to engage/disengage

Investigation continued I read the error code on ecu shorting out 1-4 pin, I didn't realise it did it for transmission only thought it was engine, anyway got the code 31. Pulled the transmission switch which should have 12V on Pin 1 but it doesn't, but I am unable to find a blown fuse in either fusebox. Applying 12V to pin 1 makes the transfer lights work correctly & gives me my PRND lights on the dash again, however moving the transmission lever blew the temporary 10A fuse I had wired in.

It appears I have an electrical short somewhere before pin 1 on the transfer switch

iam_TJ · Posted: Mon Sep 11, 2023 9:25 Post subject:

Do you have the electrical circuit diagrams and related workshop manuals?- those will show the circuits, connectors, junctions, and where the wires run.

If not get "Mitsubishi_Pajero_Generation_3_2001-2003_Workshop_Manuals.zip" from my web-site https://iam.tj/shogun/

iam_TJ · Posted: Mon Sep 11, 2023 9:53 Post subject:

Within the mass of manuals - some of which are duplicates or overlap - I kept it as I received it - you'll find the relevant pages:

Free Wheel Clutch: Pajero_III_Service_Manuals_2001-2003/Pajero III Workshop Manual 2001-2003/Manuals/26.pdf page 26-28 onwards

Transfer Lever: Pajero_III_Service_Manuals_2001-2003/Pajero III Workshop Manual 2001-2003/Manuals/23.pdf page 23-114 onwards

For circuit diagrams start at the ToC: Pajero_III_Electrical_Wiring_2001/PHJE0001_PAJERO_2001_ELECTRICAL_WIRING_COVER.pdf

and note that there may be changes from 2001 to 2002 and 2003 so look in the supplements:

Pajero_III_Electrical_Wiring_2002_Supplement/
Pajero_III_Electrical_Wiring_2003_Supplement/

Phaeton · Posted: Mon Sep 11, 2023 9:54 Post subject:

Than kyou for that I had been struggling to find information in the past, I give it a look at, I stumbled across this one this morning http://faq.out-club.ru/download/pajero_iv/maintenance/Service_Manual_2007/2007/22/html/M1220110092402ENG.HTM#:~:text=In%20the%20case%20that%20the,transfer%20shift%20lever%20switch%20system. which I intended to follow through later

Phaeton · Posted: Tue Sep 12, 2023 18:54 Post subject:

I followed the instruction on the link I put up & I found, Ah I can't upload an image new user rules I suspect, but there is a connector D-229 which is under the console below the heated seats switch area. You have to remove the cup holder, the transfer lever top, the gear change top a couple of screws & it come out.

There was 12V going into the connector but nothing coming out of it, for now I have snipped the wire both sides & soldered a wire between the 2 ends I still think there might be an earthing issue as when you select R you can see the lights flicker very slightly

Sorry if the image doesn't work I hosted it offsite, hopefully that's not against the rules

iam_TJ · Posted: Wed Sep 13, 2023 10:31 Post subject:

Did your soldering melt/deform the plastic shroud around the pin or is that due to over-current? It might be wise until you're tracked down the cause of the short to install an inline fuse on that 12V line.

Phaeton · Posted: Wed Sep 13, 2023 11:03 Post subject:

iam_TJ · Posted: Wed Sep 13, 2023 18:20 Post subject:

So somewhere there's an intermittent short to ground presumably? The flickering lights could be a clue. I'd be looking for signs of arcing all over that area including by opening and inspecting various connectors since it could be inside one of them. I presume you've inspected for obvious signs of wires being chafed or trapped?

Phaeton · Posted: Wed Sep 13, 2023 19:58 Post subject:

Yep, I'm starting at the back & working forward as the reversing lights don't currently work