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URGENT ABS BRAKES NOTICE

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tony
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2005 13:03    Post subject: URGENT ABS BRAKES NOTICE Reply with quote

hi all
this post is to warn all home mechanics about working on your brake system, particularly the 3.2di-d model but may well be relevant to other models with abs. i had the brake pads changed by my local mechanic on my 2000 model 3.2di-d, a simple enough job, but on the road test after 100 metres the abs fault light came on and buzzer sounded inside the car!
nothing we could do would cure the fault so it was time to call in our "ace on the inside" Ivor Green at solihull mitsubishi. the only possible solution was to get the car recovered back to his workshops for him to connect up to diagnostic computer! not wanting to bore you all with loads of trivia i will go straight to the results, "hydraulic brake booster" low pressure switch failed, MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY FLUID BEING PUSHED BACK UP THE SYSTEM WHEN PUSHING PISTONS BACK IN WHEEL CALIPER. Ivor has asked me to let everybody know that the flexi pipes at the caliper should be clamped and the bleed nipple cracked open to release the excess fluid as the pistons are pushed back in the calipers. to make matters worse we removed abs relays with the engine running to stop abs pump running constantly and this caused a voltage spike to render the abs computer unservicable! LESSON FROM THIS IS "DO NOT DISSCONECT ANY THING ELECTRICAL FROM BRAKE SYSTEM WITH IGNITION SWITCHED ON". now for those that are going to ask "how much?" new HBB is £1400+vat (non returnable to mitsu if its not the fault on pajero maybe on shogun) abs computer £544+vat.
lucky for me i knew where there was a crashed shogun and i got both bits for £270 cash.
last word from Ivor, he will help anybody in the club but please e-mail him through the club with your questions and he will reply asap, if you need to talk on the telephone pm him with your no. and he will call you if an e-mail cannot sort your problem out!
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2005 13:03    Post subject: Google Ads keep the POCUK free to join!


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Chris PAJ DiD
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2005 16:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Tony,
that sound scary Im about to have my brakes done at Prestige and Performance in St Helens who did yours.

Cr.....g Chris
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tony
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2005 18:32    Post subject: Reply with quote

chris
it was nobody local to home, it was down at my moms, but the guy only did what i would have done myself! thats why this post is here so nobody else makes the mistake themselves, or there non mitsu garage! you can now warn your garage before they start the job.
tony
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Ivor Green
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2005 18:57    Post subject: Reply with quote

And just to add my two penneth , do not alow the brake master cylinder to run empty , or attempt to bleed those brakes yuor selves , I have to admit my fingers were crossed when I said I thought it was the HBB unit and ECU , if wrong I would of lost a lot of respect , not just from yuo guys but from the other Mitsubish factory trained techs who also play there part in these forums , I did phone a couple of guys to seek there advice and although the most exsperianced of them all siad he thought it still could be a wireing fault I had to go with my gut feeliong and figures from the test that it needed both units . oh the reason yuo dont want to let the master cylinder run dry is it is very nearly imposible to bleed fully and correctly with out the use of our MUT computer . ahd yes I will always try to help , If I take a day to get back to yuo sorry .
and very last point Tony thanks again for having the faith to purchase 16 cans of beer knowing I was going to be able to fix it .
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Richie
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2005 20:03    Post subject: Reply with quote

so 15 cans for Tony, and one for yuo to share with lads then Ivor !!!

glad it is sorted.

See you all soon.
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Ivor Green
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 16, 2005 23:20    Post subject: Reply with quote

I managed to hide them for most of the day , and sneaked them out at 4.45 when I finished , and as I sit now I am drinking a toast to Tony long may he live God bless him .
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samfishing
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2005 20:03    Post subject: brakes Reply with quote

While you lads are on the subject of brakes, i wonder if you could shine some light on a problem with the brakes on my 1996 2.8 lwb exceed.
The brakes on my pajero have never been very good since ive had it which is over 12 months now. At speed and you hit the brakes she seems fine, she doesnt pull to either side and seems to pull up quite quick, its the last few yards which seem to be the problem. It doesnt matter how hard you press the break pedal you cant lock the wheels up. The same being if you are doing 20 to 30mph and you have try to stop it dead it just comes to a gradual halt. I have no ABS light on the dash, well if it is there it doesnt work! The foot pedal is spongy, but without the engine running you can pump it a couple of times and it firms up and holds its pressure. If you start the engine and press on the pedal, it gradualy goes about half way down. As i say the brakes have been like this since i have had it but they have got no better or worse! Two weeks ago i had the pads changed on the front even though the old ones were still like new as i wondered if it had cheap pads put on when i bought it, still no better!!!. Any ideas would be gratefully appreciated.

Thanks for your time
Sam.
the
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nick the nurse
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2005 20:19    Post subject: Brakes Reply with quote

Might be a leak from the servo
Start yer truck up and get an acomplise Laughing to press the brake pedal down as hard as he can and listen for a hiss if you hear it, yer servo is cream crackered m8 Sad. Might be your problem
if so try
www.jmautos.co.uk John should be able to sort you out ok Very Happy Wink
HTH M8
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fat bloke
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2005 21:39    Post subject: Reply with quote

A couple of simple checks to confirm the servo (brake booster) is functioning & airtight:

1) engine off > press the brake pedal > start the engine
The pedal should go down an inch or so.

2) run engine for a couple of minutes > press brake several times
the pedal should go down the most on the first press but should get gradually higher/harder with subsequent press's

3) engine running > press & hold brake pedal > stop engine
Pedal should remain firm for at least 30 seconds
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Ivor Green
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 17, 2005 23:42    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well its back to basic's
Start by purchacing 4 sets of brake pipe clamps from Halfords or the like clap off all four flexi hoses , with te engine running try the brake pedal and check to see that it feels rock solid even under prolonged pressure application ( big word for a Sunday nigth ) if it feels soft or creeps I would sugest you look at the master cylinder or any unions for leak s though unlikly , now release a clamp at a time the pedal will drop slightly but yuo are looking for the biggest drop , this will be the culprit , there may bee a weaknees in the flexi hose and a bulge or blister forming , not common but happens . what I do see very reguarly is a sticking calliper slide , this alows the piston to ecstend but when the foot brake is released because the calliper had pivoted on the slide slightly it forces the piston back into the calliper , the other common fault is plain as yuo nose on yuor face , the brakes have not been bled and there is air or micro bubbles in it . hope this helps , well worth the £10 for the clamps .
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Spongo
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PostPosted: Wed Jun 22, 2005 8:26    Post subject: Reply with quote

It never ceases to amaze me the wealth of knowledge on here, seeing this has just made me think, I have a 95 LWB with ABS and I will be changing the pads soon should I clamp the hoses as per the later models when pushing the pistons back or are these ones less prone to these little issues, and can the brakes be bled easily on these without the need of the MUT?


Cheers

Spongo
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DrHI
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Joined: 23 Jun 2005
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 23, 2005 0:23    Post subject: Re: ABS, Reply with quote

RE: ABS in 3.2 DiD ( Pajero 2000 Japenese Improt) , I have it I mean the problem of continious lighting of ABS light, is that what you meant, But I did not find any problem in applying the breakes which are working fine, do I need to correct this light? , Could it be only some thing simple like needing some break oil ( means level is low) ? or is it the same big thing you are talking about.

Come on Guys Help me on this,
What small/early checks I shall/can do, like where shall I look for the level, Cylender etc.

Many thanks in advance
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rickladds
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 23, 2005 8:05    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you use the search engine, you will find loads of threads on the ABS light. There are ways of cecking the fault codes on the ABS computer to see what it thinks the fault is, so you will know which component to focus on - but to be honest, if you are unsure in this area, you will probably be better off taking the car to a garage - but be prepared for a hefty bill.
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tony
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 23, 2005 8:13    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi
have you had any work done on your brake system?also next to the master cylinder is a round reservoir with a hexagon nut on it, does it have a blob of purple paint on it? if not this could be your problem!
where do you live? do you have a dealer close by, so that you can plug into diagnostic computer?
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DrHI
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 24, 2005 0:02    Post subject: constantly on ABS light issue although breaks working fine Reply with quote

Hi
Thanks Rickladds and Tony,

I have checked the search engine and found quite a few useful tips esp the small things like 1: jet washing the Tyre sensors by throwing water behind the wheel
2: filling the oil pot completely even 1-2 spoons extra

Lets hope if these work for me as well so that I can avoid the “hefty Bill” by taking it to the garage + offcourse the other problem is finding the time. The only thing I could not make out is that some one has mentioned about resetting the ECU by disconnecting the batteries ( either doing it alone or doing it with jet wash, after the jet wash), is it just virtually taking the wires off the red terminals of both the batteries? And this will reset the ECU!

Tony, I did not have any work done, I bought it in Nov 2004, and I am the 1st owner in UK I do not know if the person who prepare my documents and MOT had done any thing but even if he has done it was in Dec2004, since then it was working perfect till 2 days back when this light came on , the only thing is that it is standing for 2-3 months, I did not use it. I do not know if this can throw any light on the issue e-g dust etc.
And the purple blob is there on the black reservoir adjacent to the reservoir of Oil( I do not know if that is the break oil, but it is app 2-3 mm below the max level, but well above the min level)

Does it help in any direction?

And yes I live in Harefield,( UB9 6BL) near Uxbridge.
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