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URGENT ABS BRAKES NOTICE

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nick the nurse
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 05, 2007 1:20    Post subject: Reply with quote

Laughing WELCOME AVANNER  Wink ....Pleased we could as a family be of help  thumbleft  Very Happy






Just DON'Tmention the cricket crybaby  crybaby  crybaby
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kevy62
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2007 13:34    Post subject: help/advise? Reply with quote

hi guys, this is my first post so please be gentle, i have owned my 1991 2.5TD mk2 lwb exceed for 9 years, it's been fantastic!
I only do about 12/1500 miles a year! i'm disabled (MS) but never cry about it, i have always done my own servicing & never really had a problem, (until now)
my problem is my rear disk brake is binding very badly, & because i only do a small distance locally, around 5 or 6 miles at any one time! i have not noticed anything wrong, but the give away was a mixture of miles to the gallon & a smell from the OSR wheel!

So i checked the pads & they look hardly worn (compaired to new ones)
i did notice that the piston would not return back into the caliper easily,so i used a 6" "G" clamp to push it back a bit to see if it moved, but the force needed to move it was so great that it bent the sliding bar used to tighten the clamp!
although the piston did go back!  i decided that it was probably not going to be a repair item, so i have sorced another one, the caliper is of the floating type design, my worry is that i may have done some damage to my brake system, by trying to force the piston back into the caliper .
(i did not clamp the flexible pipe) but i never have before?

I was going to swap out the offending item today, but i'm not doing so good at the moment, so i thought i would ask if i'm doing the right thing before jumping in with both feet.
Any help/ advise would be great, very many thanks in advance, kevy.
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MIKEMANIA
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2007 11:08    Post subject: calliper compression Reply with quote

Hi it is normally advisable to clamp the pipe of the offending calliper and undo the bleed nipple before compressing the calliper, but in saying that i have done just the same as you in the past until i knew better and it made no difference so i believe you will be ok. Although i would from now on clamp the pipes first Very Happy
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MIKEMANIA
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2007 11:11    Post subject: Reply with quote

Please pay close attention to previous posts, i am assuming you donot have abs as i suspect you don't but if you do CLAMP THE PIPE.  Laughing  Laughing  Very Happy
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kevy62
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2007 11:31    Post subject: Reply with quote

hi, thanks for the reply, but i did the caliper swap out two weeks ago!
i found that if you clamp the flexy hose first,& losen the bleed nipple,then it was then impossible to push back the piston, on trying to push back the piston, i saw too much pressure was needed, so i removed the caliper to work on it on the bench.

It was totally funcked, as the piston was twisting in the barrel on exit, & not returning, the replacement cost me £68.00inc vat this job took 11 minutes to complete, from start to finish! i now have perfect brakes again, but many thanks again for the advise i'm sure others will find this useful , kevy.
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MIKEMANIA
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2007 12:07    Post subject: Reply with quote

No problem i not been on here for a while so i am a bit behind ing conversations but as you say someone may find it useful. Best of luck and keep up the fight on m/s YOu obveously doing great so far. All the best. Mike Very Happy  Wink
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*pete*
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 8:49    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just double checking as I'm waiting for my manuals to arrive.

Had a quick look under the bonnet of my 1995 2.8 Exceed and can't see anything that looks like an ABS unit.  Can anyone confirm that the ABS system wasn't fitted to this model or was it an optional extra ??

The mechanics did the brakes before I collected the car so I presume they the were aware of this problem or my motor doesn't have ABS.

Peter
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MIKEMANIA
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 26, 2007 11:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi i have as you can see a 2.8 1995 limited edition and it doet NOT have ABS so is possible you dont i suppose. Very Happy
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MADCOW
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 15, 2007 18:35    Post subject: Reply with quote

fat bloke wrote:
A couple of simple checks to confirm the servo (brake booster) is functioning & airtight:

1) engine off > press the brake pedal > start the engine
   The pedal should go down an inch or so.

2) run engine for a couple of minutes > press brake several times
     the pedal should go down the most on the first press  but should get gradually higher/harder with subsequent press's

3) engine running > press & hold brake pedal > stop engine
   Pedal should remain firm for at least 30 seconds


hi we tried number 1 and it didnt alter what does this mean also on the way to cornwall our sat nav diverted off the m5 (cus off traffic) and we ended up going down a very steep hill with the caravan on the back the brakes started to slacken so we had to use our hand brake to stop. when we got out of the paj to check the brakes they were glowing and now in reverse we get a squeeking noise could anybody help please.
(we cant be the first to do a little offroading with a caravan).
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*pete*
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2007 18:58    Post subject: Reply with quote

You didn't say whether it was front or rear brakes that were glowing but I've recently had the rear caliper pistons stick on my Paj, ended up with two very hot rear wheels and not brake pads to speak of by the time I got home.

I managed to release on of the in situ but had to remove the other piston completely, clean and reassemble.

Pete
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MADCOW
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2007 15:58    Post subject: Reply with quote

the front ones were glowing but the rear ones are squeaking now all the time not just in reverse any help please
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*pete*
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2007 18:11    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi,

No sure which model you have so I will suggest what I would do for the 2.8.  Drive forward and with the brakes squeaking and gently apply the hand brake and see if the squeaking stops.  If it does then the problem is probably the handbrake (the adjusters are accessed by removing the oblong rubber gromet at the bottom of the backplate and turning the knurled adjuster.  Alternatively you can release the handbrake cable adjustment and see it that cures the squeaking.

If it's not the handbrake then drive forward with the brakes squeaking and gently apply the foot brake. If the squeaking stops then the problem is probably the same as I had and the caliper pistons are sticking in the out position.  If this is the case then you have two options, replacement calipers or strip down the existing calipers, clean the pistons and bores then reassemble them.

Let me know what you find and I can perhaps explain a little more depending on where the problem is.

Pete
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MADCOW
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2007 16:28    Post subject: Reply with quote

cheers pete i will tell karl when he comes in and get him to do it i will let you know how we get on thanks pete.
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MADCOW
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 03, 2007 17:58    Post subject: Reply with quote

had to take the paj to mitsubishi garage for pitman arm recall so we got them to put us some new brake pads on and the noise was coming from one of the clips that holds the brake pads in place because the brake pads had worn down to 3mm on the back. thanks for your help.



                 lisa and karl.
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fathands
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 15, 2007 15:06    Post subject: Reply with quote

i have just got the shogun did and when i brake heavy the stering wheel judders and shakes like mad i have been told  that its just the abs working but i still think it cant be right any views welcome
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