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List of offroading mods

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vibe666
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 19:11    Post subject: Reply with quote

here's the stuff my dad used to use and actually now I think about it the last roofing material he was touching before he fell through a roof an broke his back (long story).

it's great stuff, i've used it on whole roofs or just gutters quite a few times with him growing up and it's excellent.  not sure if you could just get enough of it to do the inside of your motor but it really is ideal.  it could be cut to shape and heat welded together at the joins and it would be totally waterproof (tis goofd enough for british gutters after all. Smile

not sure where you'd get it or for how much, but it might be worth a look if you're serious.
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vibe666
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 19:12    Post subject: Reply with quote

dopey twonk that I am, I forgot to post the link. Very Happy

http://www.phoenix-dt.de/phx_dichtungsbahnen/resitrix_cl_e.html
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emandem
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2009 17:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

Just a thought I`ve just done a pond with fibreglass pretty easy really and you can get it to work into corners and such and a nice neat finish once gelcoated and they do several gel/topcoat colours and really hard wearing and of course totally waterproof Smile
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ambo
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 20:52    Post subject: Reply with quote

Embarassed could you use roofing bitchem  to seal floors in 4x4
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gegs750k4
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 30, 2013 21:15    Post subject: Reply with quote

no if you ever plan on welding it in the future. it burns for england and you won't put it back out Shocked
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2013 15:02    Post subject: Reply with quote

Its really not worth trying to 'seal' the floors as you simply wont be able to do it, water will always travel down to the lowest point and it will get in behind what ever you put down and once there it will rust a lot quicker.  Best option is to clean the surface and paint it with a hard wearing paint like hamerite, if you wanted to be really fancy you could use either road line paint which has a grit fin it for grip or the american load liner paint, this will provide a waterproof and durable seal although if you ever need to do work to it at a later date (and it can still rust from the other side and in the seams) it will be a complete *beep* to do.  As for the schutz style underseal, this is not waterproof and will actually trap water in, its an impact protection and is designed to be put over painted areas, the paint doing the waterproofing.

My advice, clean it after off roading and let it dry properly, cut your carpets to make them removable and let them dry completley before refitting, oh and throw your underlay/soundproofing away, it is just one big sponge!!
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Ash3000k
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2013 10:46    Post subject: Re: List of offroading mods Reply with quote

turbine wrote:
Tips/Mods 4x4 vehicles

Take a seat Ladies and Gentlemen I have not mastered the art of brevity. Here is a small collection of handy little mods I've done to my vehicles over the years.  

Diff Breathers

Extend the diff breather pipes with a stainless pipe inserted into the join, route pipe till it is well above the chassis line. Buy a cheap petrol in-line filter and install on end of pipe to prevent junk getting into the line.

Protecting electrical circuits, eg; voltage regulators, relays etc.

Purchase or 'borrow' from the other half tupperware containers that suit the size of the component. Remove component, drill or burn with soldering iron the fixing holes and make provision for wiring holes. Fix component to anchor point, seal  holes with good quality mastic. Put the top on the container on and you have a nice watertight seal that's easy to acess for maintainance.

Fording Rivers; Mods

Bow Wave and Hood Protector
One thing I liked to do was glue a roll of 1/8'' thick rubber to the front of the bonnet. This served two purposes. It proteceted the front of the bonnet from stones and small chips from messing up the paintwork when rolled up. The paintwork itself was never an issue with me but the ensueing rust was. I Hate Rust. Just prior to going through the water I loosesned the straps, rolled it down to cover the grille and went for it. This is just a precaution to keep the bow wave out of the engine bay as much as possible. It also protects the fan blades, radiator matrix and in some cases with flexible blades prevents them from chewing a big hole in the back of the rad.(Rare but seen it happen though.) Water is heavy.

Carpets
Usually the first thing I did on any of my 4x4's was remove the carpets and use them as a template for making nice thick rubber ones.Wet carpets stink, hold in moisture and create a nice humid atmosphere to create rust and mess with wiring loom terminals. For those with a rubber fetish this is heaven too. Those who need the interior to look good. Place the carpets on top of the rubber. Then before you hit the dirt take 'em off, roll them up and throw them in the back.

Waterproofing Door Seals
What I used to do was take a section of the same 1/8th rubber material and glued it to the outside of the lower half of the doors. Make a cardboard template of the lower door rims. Cut a section of rubber about three inches wide. One inch to be glued to the door section, the other two to bridge the gap between door and body. When you ford the river the water pressure presses the rubber against the body thus making a very nice seal. A nice strip of polished stainless can be added to the forward pointing section of the door seat to give more stiffness to that area of the seal. Some guys also like shiny bits on their vehicles. For me the less chrome the better. The time I would have to spend looking after it could be put to better use making sure the vehicle is mechanically perfect. ''Looks and chrome don't get you home''

Light Bars
Personally don't think they're worth the hassle but seem to be popular here in Europe. Purchase a multiple pin bulkhead connector. They are used in many applications so presumably would be easy to get this side of the world. Yes a hole would have to be drilled in the roof. But these connectors are waterproof. More importantly make a neat, safe, connection. Added to the fact that that if you want to remove the light bar its just a case of unscrewing the connection. The other half stays in place, won't get moisture in it and you can install it all back on when you need it. I suggest multiple pin because this allows you to create more than one independant circuit.
As far as the bar itself buy a normal inexpensive roof bar, drill the holes for the spots, route the wiring through the bar then attach.

Winches
Heavy and expensive and are they really worth it. One can put that money into upgrading the mechanical side of the vehicle with things it really needs. I have had vehicles with winches and removed them. That's the second thing I do when I buy a vehicle.
Front mounted winches make little sense. You don't want to pull yourself deeper into the stuff that got you stuck. Yes you can have a carrier on the rear underside and route the cable there. But you have little control and the winch must work harder because it pulls the nose down deeper into the muck anyway. I've seen some guys take the precaution of stopping the vehicle, pulling the winch cable under the vehicle through to the rear carrier. Then going for it. Makes sense because then you don't have to burrow under a stuck truck.
A nice heavy duty come along and/or chain block is more versatile. Does not use up precious battery power. Makes for good exersize as well and you don't have to go to a stuffy gym and pay exorbitant fees. You can pull your vechicle sideways, forwards, backwards and upwards. (For those poor,misguided, unfortunate Series Land Rover owners needing to change broken half-shafts etc,etc.)
They are highly portable. A heavy winch stays put. All my 4x4's were daily commuters as well. When I was not going bundu bashing all that heavy gear was stowed in the house till needed. It makes little sense to lug around a whole lot of surplus weight.
Please,please, please never use a tow hitch for pulling a vehicle out the thick stuff. They are mostly cast. If there is a small imperfection in the material a good pull turns them into deadly large caliber rounds. Normal towing conditions do not come near the strain of pulling a heavy vehicle out of a stuck situation.
Whilst we are on the subject of winching carry an assortment of shackles with your kit. They are good for spreading the pulling load when needed. Changing the direction of a pull if needed without re-rigging your set-up.Adding rope to chain, chain to cable etc. If you're the Pope they make a handy keyring for all those heavy keys as well.

Anchors
Nature does not always provide us with what we need. Sometimes that tree or sturdy rock is just, annoyingly, out of reach. Dig a nice hole. Loop a section of rope  through the spare then bury it deep and attach your rigging gear to it. Pull yourself out. This works especially well in sand. Standard kit for me is a 3/4'' dia. section of rebar about 5 feet long sitting on the roof rack. Heat up one end and hammer a loop into it. It makes a magnificent pry bar to straighten bent body panels. Hammer it into the ground at an angle and you have a good ground ancor. It's a damn good digging tool when a spade won't suffice. The loop at one end makes a good handle when you're neck deep in mud specially when its covered with a piece of rubber hose. Need a place to hang you cooking/coffee pot? Bring out the rebar, then light the fire sit back and enjoy.

Boards
Really versatile little numbers. Cut 4 sections of 3/4'' thick marine ply into 2 1/2 feet by 1 foot rectangles. Mix sand with a rubberising compound and paint one side of each board with it.Gives good grip. Need to make sure your jack doesn't dissapear into the mud? Spread the load with one of these boards. Stuck again? Jack up the vehicle and put a board under the wheels for purchase. Changing a tyre, snagged a shaft and the tools, nuts and bolts are slowly sinking into the mud? Use a board to keep it clean and where you want them. Need to step away from all the adrenalin and exitement of off-roading for a while? Grab a board, find a quiet spot for a while, sit till the feeling of boardom wears off. Jokes aside guys, these things come in handy. They're strong,light weight and easy to stow away.  

Snorkels
Now, they make good sense even if you never touch water. They are high up out of the way of most of the dust. This puts less strain on the air filter. They create a bit of a ram air effect, every little helps. In Africa and the Middle East dust is a problem, I always made sure I carried around plenty of spare air filters. And yes I am paranoid about dust eroding turbo compressor blades and grinding away the innards of beautiful engines. Granted there might not be much dust around here but still..............
I have seen snorkel assy's on this forum at crazy prices. I am making one for an aquiantance next week from the same materials. But for a little time and under 40 euro for materials. I will place a step by step pictorial guide here when done for those who are interested.
However gentlemen before you become submarine captians check your seals and C.V. boots, modify your diff breathers. More importantly don't just barrel through. Check the route for any possible traps,obstructions. Water gives a great resistance. A big initial bow wave can actually stall a vehicle because of this, leading to all sorts of interesting problems and solutions. Part of the fun though. But still, take it easy.

Anyway enough for now, my tail is numb, the eyes can't focus. Apologies to those who are bored stuff or know this stiff already. (See what I mean?)


This is great thanks, the only thing it could do with is links to sites that supply the various items,   Very Happy
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rafter
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2014 22:31    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very useful
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Brigadier
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 01, 2015 12:48    Post subject: Reply with quote

Any pics and links for these mods ?
I'm particularly interested in the diff breather mod.
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Pdevolution
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Joined: 30 Jan 2017
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 10, 2017 14:40    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi there,

Forgive me for relaunching an old post but i've been doing a lot of research.

I note the comments about the carpet and i have just experienced this for myself after getting bogged down. I removed the seats and then cut the carpet there so when reinstalling, you won't see the seam. You're right about the proofing being a sponge! so much muddy water after getting bogged down.

Unfortunately it seems i have fried my alarm control module as it got wet - struggling to find a replacement.

I also note after lifting the carpets that there are a lot of wires running down both sides - has anyone relocated these or protected them in any way?

also if anyone has a spare cobra 8165 going spare it'd be much appreciated!!  Very Happy
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