The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners Club®

[JASPER2447]

Ok   I've searched all the forums and read all the posts, but I cannot seem to find an answer to my problem

It's the gearchanging on the auto box !

If I have the A/T selector in neutral the gears hold far too long and the changes up thro the gears only take place at very high revs.  If I have the A/T selector in POWER, just the same, in fact they're indistinguishable.

If I keep the selector in HOLD, then the gearchanges occur at civilised sort of revs, tho' obviously I lose the use of first gear for moving off (that doesn't bother me)

In fact, I'm quite happy just to keep it in HOLD, but I know it's not right and, being a bit of a perfectionist where the Pajero is concerned, I want it working just right.

Oh, yes  -  I've disconnected the battery overnight to see if it re-sets the ECU - no difference whatsoever.

Anybody have any clues

John B

[Google]

[Baddoo]

From what your describing it sounds like its working OK.

Try resetting the gearbox ecu and then adapt your driving to use a lighter right foot, on mine if I press even slightly harder than usual (with A/T on auto) it behaves like it is power and I have to lift my foot to stop it reving quite so high.
Mine seems to have 2 different spring tensions on the accelerator pedal, if I press its as if it hits a stop and I have to press a little harder to go beyond that point, its when I go straight past that second point on initial acceleration it believes it is in power, sort of like it believes youve really stomped on the go pedal and want it to be in pwr

Hope the above makes sense

[cavecommander]

they are desigend to hold the revs higher on heavy throttle aplication..

the problem with a paj is that some of them are so under powered that the throttle gets pushed to the floor as the norm.. hence the holding revs too long as the norm..

the work around is to ease off when u want the change up to occur..

trog

[JASPER2447]

No, i don't think so.  

I've had this car about fifteen months now and I had a 2.5 auto before that,  so I think I know that it's gone wrong just in the last couple of months.  

At first  I thought it was just the colder weather and the temperature sensor not allowing it to change up properly until the engine/gearbox was warm enough, but it doesn't seem to be dependent on engine temp at all.  It feels worst when it's cold in a morning, but it still does it all blooming day too!

John

[squeek]

Could it be someting simple like the a/t switch not working properly??

[cavecommander]

its not throttle dependent then..??

with gentle (read granny like) acceleration my paj changes up at around 2000 rpm or just above.. with heavy (read normal) acceleration it holds on longer and wont change up till  nearly 4000 rpm..

my old auto saab did/does the same.. the only difference being with the saab normal was normal and not granny like so it was never a problem..

trog

[Baddoo]

I agree with trog, mine is doing just over 2000 at the first "stop" on the accelerator and it is more than enough to get the old girl moving, she wont burn any rubber but she pulls off easy enough, with only a little more pressure (and I do mean a VERY little) the revs start hitting 3000ish between gear changes. I tend to use the first stop as a good point for cruising down the A38 and that usually has me doing between 50 and 60

[Ron Hunt]

Try adjusting the throttle position sensor.
Remove the inetrcooler, its the black oval thing on top of the fuel pump, loosen the 2 screws it will move backwards/forwards. To set it up properly you'll need an AVO, details are in the manual. If no AVO just set it to the central position.
Turn one way the gear change will be at lower revs, the other way the gear change will be at higher revs.

[cavecommander]

i have my intercooler off at the minute ron.. any idea of which way u turn this thing.. i could do with mine adjusting i think.. ??

trog

[Brownie]

[JASPER2447]

Hi all

Got a final update for you  - re my auto box changing up only at very high revs.  I checked it out on the road and the change up to third was happening only at 4,000 rpm, even with a very light foot on the throttle.

This morning I lifted off the intercooler (4 x 10mm bolts)  and checked the free play in the throttle cable  -  then adjusted it to the 1mm clearance specified in both Haynes and Russek manuals.

There was about three quarters of an inch of play (about 18mm for the metric) in the cable - the picture below shows just how much adjustment I had to make - check out the shiny bit on the thread !

Outcome - perfect gear changes now in all A/T Mode switch settings.
Off to Torquay for the weekend with Mrs Jasper now with a happy mind

Thanks for al the input guys

John B

[doctorchopper]

Any idea if this works for a 2.8 auto box as mine is doing the same thing

[PJ's Paj]

Jaspers is a 2.8  

[markppearson]

I know you've sorted it now, and this may sound silly, but which battery cable did you disconnect?

I tried the same to clear the ECU by removing the + terminal. Didnt seem to make much differance at all.

When I recently changed the plugs out, I disconnected the - terminal, and (no it wasnt in my mind) it seemed to make more, a lot more difference.


You dunno, if it works it works. If not, it just makes me sound stupid and dillusional I guess!!! But its normally the simple things thats work, or so I'm told!

[JASPER2447]

Hi Mark

Actually it's not such a dumb question  -  if you've got twin batteries, asI have, you have to remove both positive leads as they are wired up in parallel.

If you just remove one, presumably the other battery contuinues to give power.

Actually - I didn't feel that it made any difference either, I have my doubts about this "ECU learns you driving style and you have to disconnect it to clear its memory"   I think we're attaching a lot too much intelligence to a dumb chip myself !

I still have a bit of tweeking to do, as I think my kickdown cable is still a bit too short, giving me late changes still, but not as bad as it was.

John