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turbo issues, gen, insp. install and priming


 
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2007 17:45    Post subject: turbo issues, gen, insp. install and priming Reply with quote

Heat and dirty oil kill the bearings. The turbine soaks a lot of heat from the exhaust. If you take an EGT reading before and after the turbine you see a big drop in temps. On shutdown the oil pressure ceases. But the heatsink can bake the acids, carbon and laquers present in the oil on the phosphor bronze bushings and oil seals ( a metal to metal surface) Frequent oil change will minmise this. Shutdown procedure is also important. Allowing the engine to idle for a min. of 30 seconds allows the bearing and casing to cool down. The oil flow will also carry away a lot of the heat.
Inspection. A lot of oil present in the compressor casing is an indication. The compressor should turn freely with no resistance. Next is shaft play. In a perfect world there should be no play. Play in the shaft can cause a hormonic resonance that can damage the bearing. There are cases where a very small amount of play is allowed whist still allowing proper seal. However it must be monitored because it does indicate a problem. Experience is required to judge the play and the use of a DTI to accurately check. So for the purposes of this text if you have noticable play remove the unit.
On an intercooled engine if the compressor bursts any shrapnel will be stopped by the intercooler. The danger is fire and run on. Even if the engine and therefore fuel supply is shut down. The oil from the bearing will be combusted, RPM's will rise and it's difficult to shut down quickly. This happened to me and I burst two pistons and the engine caught fire.

Before you start locate and spray with WD40 any bolts you see. Before you try to loosen them give them a good sharp tap with a hammer. This helps to unfreeze them. If a bolt gets frozen whilst loosening it don't force it. Spray it them loosen tighten loosen tighten to free up the threads. You don't want them to shear off.  
1. Remove sump guard/armour
2. Remove turbo engine bay heat shield and turbo head shield.
3. Remove induction ducting
4. At the exhasut elbow after the turbo, diconnect the flange.
5. On the intake manifold youy will see the actuator. Remove the vacuum pipe. Undo the two bolts that attach the actuator to manifold. Go the the turbo and pull the rod out of the spindle. Do not exert any heavy side pressure on the arm exiting the actuator. Put the actuator out of harms way.
6.Loosen and disconnect the oil pressure feed pipe on the top of the turbo, then the oil pressure return at the bottom. Be very carefull not to get any gunk in there. Tape the ends closed. Also do not damage or strain the pipework.. If you bend them they can kink or crack.
7. On the exhaust manifold you'll see where the turbo turbine/wastegate casing bolt on. Remove those bolts. Remove the turbo.
8. On the exhaust side you will get some metal gaskets. Keep them and do not bend/crease them. They can be cleaned up and reused. I use a scotch brite pad and brake fluid.
Re-installation
1.Drain engine oil. Prime the oil filter by filling with some oil and install.
2. Before installing turbo clean the top of the casing to remove any debris. Slowly add oil to the inlet pressure port whilst turning the compressor. Blank the port.
3. Install the turbo, waste gate actuator and exhaust flange.
4. ( you have already removed the intercooler for cleaning whilst the turbo is away) Brush the head area around the glow plug ports to prevent any debris from entering the cylinders. Remove the glow plugs.Turn the engine by hand to prime the oil system and specifically turbo oil pressure line. When you get a good flow install the pipe.
5. Install glow plugs, run engine and check for leaks.
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