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alternator failure?


 
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GIABO
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 23:51    Post subject: alternator failure? Reply with quote

stop chucking your alternator and treat your wallet to a day off.

ive done this on some german cars i used to have and the pajs alternator is built in the same manner..havnt even looked at my own yet because the previous owner just put a new one in before i bought it 2 weeks ago!

anyway, instead of spending £130+ on a new alternator, spend 5 minutes calling your parts person and order a new voltage regulator/alternator brushes for the princely sum of £15! seriously easy job to do, alternator off, plastic end unscrews, under there in in the centre are 2 screws holding the regulator and brushes.
..and that is it! as long as the alternator spins ok and isnt rusted out etc just buy the brushes/regulator (one piece) and then proceed to kick yourself having spent vast fortunes on previously spent alternators! )

haynes manual chapter 5 engine electrical systems part 16 init
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 20, 2011 23:51    Post subject: Google Ads keep the POCUK free to join!


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GIABO
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 0:08    Post subject: Reply with quote

actually-screw that-on mitsubishi alternators you can even just change the brushes by themselves! £3.99 on ebay or £130.00 for new alternator?
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REVOGEL
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 15:53    Post subject: Reply with quote

Aword of warning here. Do NOT allow engine degreasant to get in alternators. It melts the insulating laquer on the coils. I have heard WD40 does the same but unproven. Better safe than sorry.
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gegs750k4
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 21, 2011 17:19    Post subject: Reply with quote

REVOGEL wrote:
Aword of warning here. Do NOT allow engine degreasant to get in alternators. It melts the insulating laquer on the coils. I have heard WD40 does the same but unproven. Better safe than sorry.


wd40 is a cracking de-greaser, when folks spray the alternator bearing with it it cures the squealing but dissolves the bearing grease.
i would rather spend the money, get it reconditioned and get the bearings done at the same time.
that way i get a bench test and a warranty.
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assassin
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PostPosted: Sun Sep 25, 2011 1:31    Post subject: Reply with quote

It also corrodes the copper.
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paddyj
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 07, 2011 17:38    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can anyone give me a part number for these, Ive cross referenced all the alternator numbers but am struggling with brush numbers Rolling Eyes
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pajrabbit
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 22:48    Post subject: Reply with quote

just find out what your alternator is and youll find them easy enough.
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pajrabbit
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PostPosted: Wed Nov 09, 2011 22:50    Post subject: Reply with quote

dunno if the 2.8 and 2.5 are the same alternator or which years but check this link..
http://www.pocuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=90635&sid=2bcd7ff1a155579b932af4223a02afad
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paddyj
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 10, 2011 12:57    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cheers Paj, found them eventually, it seems people aren't repairing alternators and starters any more  Rolling Eyes , throw away society I suppose. but anyway this lot do them http://www.autoelectrics.net/alternator_parts.html  part number 140817, for 6 quid.

Alternatively SAS components do the whole regulator, part/catalogue number 10791 for about 35 quid.

Hope this helps anybody else!
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Selkent1
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 22, 2012 18:24    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the feeling mines on its way out, anyone got some pics to show the process?

Phil
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Roadrunner2110
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2015 0:20    Post subject: Reply with quote

Spray WD40 on bare metal and watch it go rusty ................. rust sets in almost immediately but many believe it takes ages. I believe the lubricating powers of WD40 are a fallacy and it's defo more like a degreasant/degrippant.

I believe in spray grease and chain wax for protection of shafts etc, silicon or rubber spray on door rubber seals and use WD40 as a degrippant/penetrating fluid on seized nuts and bolts. Read the contents safety data sheet of both they are near identical Shocked I still prefer Plusgas though.
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trekker
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2015 18:55    Post subject: Reply with quote

As is often the case, there can be more to this simple repair than replacing a diode and brush pack.

Definitely replace the bearings, and the slip ring end bearing is not so easy to remove from the shaft.

Slip rings should be skimmed.

I overhauled my original alternator, fitting new brushes and bearings, only to find later the charging dropped away completely when the engine revs reached 2800. As we were 1500 km into a camping trip and in need of a reliable charge for at least another month, I had the alternator stripped at an auto shop, only to find the slip rings had oval wear, and this was causing the brushes to bounce, and the charge to cease.
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