The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners Club®

paul_c2 · ****** Joined: 23 Feb 2009 Posts: 1396 Location: Cheshire

I'm shortly going to be off roading proper in my new (to me) Pajero, its completely standard at the moment but has mud terrain/all terrain tyres (on, I think, standard wheels). What would be the MINIMUM extra equipment I should have, to make it thru the day at a pay & play site and get the most of it. I'm thinking:

- Decent pair of wellies
- Tow rope pre-attached to front recovery point
- Sandwiches

I know that reducing tyre pressures might help me get out of a sticky situation, is it worth carrying a compressor so I can pump them up again at the end of the day? Also, any other items? Spade? Worth removing the tow bar, so it doesn't 'plough' the land so much? I have had a good look and it appears there is a large skid plate underneath the engine, which extends back to the front diff; and a protector of some kind for the rear diff, and I think there's also protectors for the gearbox/transfer box underneath too. Is there any value in removing the side steps (are these standard on a 1991 Pajero SWB anyway?)

Thanks in anticipation...

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minesapasty · Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 1:34 Post subject:

Go with someone who knows what he/she is doing, before you get yourself into a whole lot of trouble and end up with a dead/badly battered NEW Paj.

It isn't just a bit of fun, it can be very expensive if you don't know how to tackle certain things in the correct manner. There are a lot of people on here who have some pretty horrific stories to tell about people who forget to treat things with respect.

leeandeb · Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 16:40 Post subject:

yep i with them ...

the first thing you need before doing any off road is join a local club and go along with them !
you can go off road on your own BUT you must walk the whole route before hand and asses the route ur going to drive, even F1 drivers still walk every inch of the track.

next is go to pay and play site with the group and ask them what you need as they have been there done that.

look at the range rover in this link on a pay and play site...

http://www.pocuk.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=91324

nitrodave · Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 16:44 Post subject:

paul_c2 · ****** Joined: 23 Feb 2009 Posts: 1396 Location: Cheshire

Yep, the first 'real' off roading I'll be doing at a pay & play site, safe in the knowledge that there will be lots of others around, so if I get stuck or the car breaks down or I have an accident or something, I'll be able to sort something out. I've driven across flattish but non-tarmac surfaces before and also did a little bit of off roading years ago, on an outdoor experience day (it was about 8 years ago, and in a Suzuki SJ, went down a muddy slope, into a pond, then up another muddy slope, low range 1st gear stuff). So I'm not a complete beginner but never really done anything where there's a danger of getting stuck (yet).

I understand that Pay & Play sites tend to grade the tracks or obstacles, so at least that way I can work up to the more difficult stuff gradually rather than find myself faced with a daunting slope, or something. Also I'll be doing a lot of watching as well as driving, so I get a good idea of how to do stuff.

Also I've seen a lot of videos on YouTube and it always seems that the Range Rovers get through, while the Pajero gets stuck? Is this just coincidence on the ones I've found so far? What are the weaknesses of the Pajero, does it have not so good axle articulation or something?

idratherbesurfing · Posted: Tue Mar 03, 2009 22:37 Post subject:

the difference between a [classic shape] range rover and a paj, is that the front suspension a range rover sits on springs and shockers, whereas the paj is held up by torsion bars, shock absorbers, and wishbones.

this means the standard paj has not as much articulation in front as a standard range rover, and can ground out easily.

the articulation on th paj CAN be improved by modifying suspension etc, but as its your first time out you wont have to worry about that yet! all you need is a tidy set of All terrain tyres, a good tow rope, and an open mind Wink

have fun!

paul_c2 · ****** Joined: 23 Feb 2009 Posts: 1396 Location: Cheshire

Well I went out today and I had a great time, unfortunately my tow rope was hopelessly weak and I snapped it (trying to recover another Pajero). It didn't take a lot of force to snap. So, I now need to purchase another. I have found a choice of these two:

10.5 ton rope

21.5 ton webbed strap

I'm figuring that obviously the 21 ton one is better, but if it were to snap, I'd rather the rope snapped than the chassis bent, or more likely, the area around the tow point(s) became distorted and the tow points bent. So which one would you go for? It would primarily be for off road recovery, but I might need it for a little bit (ie recover to place of safety) towing on the road, etc.

NJV6 · Posted: Mon Mar 09, 2009 2:26 Post subject:

To be honest I wouldn't be using either of them!

As you have discovered, the wrong rope for the application will break it. Using either of those ropes means the weak point is not the rope. It is then how the driver goes about things. Standard tow hooks are welded onto the chassis and should never be used for a snatch tow, THEY BREAK, then THEY FLY! Yes I have seen flying tow hooks go through windows. It is not plesant and thankfully no one has been killed by one here, just badly injured.

This is why I will always recommend a bolted rated tow hook. A proper hook designed for the pupose with correct bolts will straighten at a set load, somewhat above their 10000lb safety stamp. Then using a Kenetic bungy or nylon rope is the easiest way to get a vehicle out. I hate seeing people snatching a vehicle like a Pajero out using the rear towing oint with a shackel in it attaching the rope - this just makes a missile if it goes wrong or the driver gets a bit trigger happy!

And to answer ya question,

Fire Extiguisher
Loo paper
Spade,
Rope
1st aid kit
Torch
Basic tool kit

Subedei · Posted: Sun Mar 29, 2009 16:38 Post subject:

There is one golden rule and if you follow it it is all you will need....

Don't go out on your own

leeandeb · Posted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 9:53 Post subject:

TATfan · Posted: Mon Mar 30, 2009 23:15 Post subject:

Take plenty of water. For you to drink, and to top up your screenwash bottle.

nezzy · Posted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 23:39 Post subject:

i have a in my kit

spade
several 5 ton strops
several 4 3/4 ton shackles
first aid kit
basic tools inc bunjies and zip ties
hand saw
waffle boards

extra water,oil,and break fluid

and just remember

after being off road in the muddy puddles get your rad cleaned as a clogged rad will lead to overheating and mega money for a new head.

never go out on your own and it's not about being brave as that just lands you in trouble. if you dont likethe look of something dont do it. theres always a way round

nezzy · Posted: Thu Sep 10, 2009 23:40 Post subject:

no edit button,

i also carry a complete change of clothes too inc footwear as you never kbnow when you'll end up soaked.

assassin · Posted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 3:59 Post subject: Newbie off road

My advice would be to attend proper off road training courses run by reputable and affiliated training centres, these are a cost, but the cost could be saved on the first trip out by not damaging your vehicle. These basic off road driving courses can be taken in stages as funds or time permit and extend right up to winching, etc.

They are a mine of information for beginners, they often involve vehicle preperation, and the course instructors will impart valuable knowledge o vehicle prep and equipment required for your level of expertise.

My Daihatsu F20 is powered by a 6.5L supercharged diesel, it has tremendous power and torque.

Vehicle prep involved was a full lift including swapping to coil springs.
Full underbody protection including rock sliders with substantial plate, not the usual 3mm tin.
Cooper STT full off road tyres on larger diameter rims, with the speedo recalibrated (35")
Hydraulic winches front and rear (15,000lb)
Substantial snatch recovery points
Home made bumpers including cut outs for the high lift jack and recovery and lifting points

Permanently installed equipment includes:
Folding universal shovel with various attachments including saw.
Fire extinguishers X2
First aid kit
2X rechargable LED torches
High lift jack
Waffles X2

Kit boxes are added to the back:

Winching box includes:
Various 8 tonne strops in differing lengths
Various shackles
Kinetic recovery straps 9 metres long X3
Substantial extension chain and shortening plates
Plus spares for the winches and hydraulic oil

Tool box includes various spares as well as most tools to work on the vehicle including a couple of sledge hammers to knock in ground anchors.

Ad hoc box includes many additional items
Garden sprayer with variable spray nozzle, great for back flushing mud filled radiators, cleaning lights and screens.
Kettles X 2 12volt
Petrol cooker and frying pan
Cool box for milk, coffee, cans of pop, bread, and bacon and eggs
5 gallon collapsible water carrier for drinks, filling up garden sprayer, or even the radiator

All the boxes are removable but only allow the driver and passenger as they take up so much space, each box is fastened down, and has been specifically designed and manufactured by me from many years of off roading. This is what you can achieve, but i would still advocate taking a course and building onit as i, and many others have done; you will tailor your equipment for your needs and requirements as you learn more.

haylands · Posted: Sat Sep 19, 2009 11:46 Post subject: Re: Newbie off road