The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners Club®

emax · Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 11:08 Post subject: ABS Fault codes? connector?

Hello pajalectrics Very Happy

Been trying to sort out the ABS On the 94 2.8 td paj. (I like a challenge Rolling Eyes

) I would like to get the fault codes from this connector

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/emaxmax/PICT1283.jpg

I have read on here that connecting the number 1 to earth will give the codes via an analogue multi meter or a check engine light. I have tried the number 1 connected to earth and it just shows a steady voltage on the meter ie. not blinking/ticking. I dont have a check engine light Confused

However there is also reference to using number 4 and number 12 to get the codes?? is this the method i should be using? Question

These are the corresponding numbers i have got for above connector/ as it appears in the above photo
8 16
7 15
6 14
5 13
4 12
3 11
2 10
1 9

I have taken out and tested all the wheel sensors which all seem to be ok, the rear ones had about half a pound of metal filings attached to the tips Laughing

and it took about three hours to get the front ones out Evil or Very Mad

Checked all the wiring and fuses and cleaned every plug with switch cleaner. Fluid level is ok.

Also for good measure took out what i believe to be the ABS ECU which for future reference is on the O/S rear wheel arch (inside car) at the back of the arch (in front of the rear Aircon if you have it.) That was not fried Razz

.

Also (just in case i have to ) does anyone now the exact location of the ABS G sensor?? i have read somewhere under the front centre console Confused

See you flipping houses Shocked

emax

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dpruk · Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 12:25 Post subject:

You need to use an anolouge multi meter availible from machine mart for about a fiver. The codes will show with sweeps of the needle on the multi meter. Where it says connect to terminal 12 to earth it dont connect it to a body earth. This is how I did it any way

Voltmeter
1) To retrieve stored trouble codes, locate diagnostic
connector under left side of dash. Turn ignition off. Connect analog
voltmeter between diagnostic terminal No. 4 and vehicle ground
terminal No. 12 of diagnostic connector. See Fig. 5. Start engine.
2) Stored trouble codes will be indicated by sweeps of
voltmeter needle. Long sweeps indicate first digit of code; short
sweeps indicate second digit of code. If more than one fault is
present, lowest number code will be given first. After trouble code
has been retrieved, test indicated component and/or related circuit
(if necessary). See TROUBLE CODE DEFINITION and appropriate CODE under
DIAGNOSIS & TESTING for servicing procedure.

TROUBLE CODE DEFINITION
TROUBLE CODES TABLE

Code (1) System Affected
11 ....................... Right Front Wheel Sensor (Open)
12 ........................ Left Front Wheel Sensor (Open)
13 ........................ Right Rear Wheel Sensor (Open)
14 ......................... Left Rear Wheel Sensor (Open)
15 ............................ Sensor Output Signal Fault
16 ..................................... ECU Power Voltage
21 ...................... Right Front Wheel Sensor (Short)
22 ....................... Left Front Wheel Sensor (Short)
23 ....................... Right Rear Wheel Sensor (Short)
24 ........................ Left Rear Wheel Sensor (Short)
25-27 ............................ 4WD Power Circuit Fault
31 .............................. "G" Sensor Power Voltage
32 ............................. "G" Sensor Output Voltage
33 .............................. Stoplight Switch Circuit
41, 43, or 45 ..................... Solenoid Valve Circuit
51 ........................................... Valve Relay
53 ........................................... Motor Relay
63 ............................................ Faulty ECU
64 ............................................ Faulty ECU

emax · Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2009 22:38 Post subject:

Hello

Thanks for the reply dpruk.
Spent sometime today and made the following discoveries. The numbers above do not correspond with my connector Confused

. Number 1 is the top left hand socket in the plug in my (above)picture. I connected number 1 to earth and it gave up it's secrets Laughing

I got the fault codes using the analogue meter as suggested it showed fault 32 and 51.

For fault 31, haynes says G sensor fault. The above list says G sensor power voltage. So I guess that they amount to the same fault.

I managed to dig out the G sensor which lives under the centre console below the middle box where you put your cups ie. behind the handbrake. Hopefully i can get one from scrappers (it looks like it might be a record price from main dealers). Sad

For fault 51 the Haynes manual says "ABS system bulb relay circuit" the above list says "valve relay" I imagine they are one and the same??.

Does anyone know where the relay is located?? and what bulb it controls?? presumably it means the ABS dash light?? or is there something else??

See you when my moat is finished Very Happy

emax

emax · Posted: Thu Jun 25, 2009 15:45 Post subject:

Hello

Well, after a lot of timber scratching and a lot paj demolition and a lot of read2

and a lot of help from Dpruk notworthy

, finally managed to crack it.

Fault 32 said G sensor this is it

http://i219.photobucket.com/albums/cc95/emaxmax/PICT1345.jpg

Fault 51 said valve relay. There is a Relay on top of the ABS pump, that one tested ok. So I thought i would start with renewing the G. sensor.

Got a secondhand G sensor from breakers and fitted that this morning. What do you know? The ABS light goes out now and it all works ok hello1

Also found out that the engine diagnostic codes can be read from socket number 11 on the above plug.

The fault codes have not gone after disconnecting the battery for a few minutes Confused

I will leave the battery of overnight see if that does it.

When i bought this vehicle i did not know that the ABS light was on, as someone had removed the dash bulb. It has passed five MOT's with the ABS bulb removed.

After driving it for five years like that, I am proper happy it now works as it should Laughing

. When i did find out the ABS was not working I didn't want to tackle it as I thought it would be impossible and expensive.
Very time consuming sorting it out, but well worthwhile and it was under £50 to repair Cool

Now everything on the paj works.(including the headlight washers) Laughing

Thanks to Dpruk Very Happy

see you on centre court
emax

emax · Posted: Fri Jun 26, 2009 9:35 Post subject:

left the batteries disconnected over night.. fault codes all gone this morning thumbup

dpruk · Posted: Fri Jun 26, 2009 12:57 Post subject:

Well done, Glad you have sorted it

matpp · * Joined: 17 Sep 2003 Posts: 25 Location: Pyrenees France

emax · Posted: Thu Jul 30, 2009 15:20 Post subject:

Hello MTP

You will need an analogue or multi meter (one with a sweeeping hand rather than a digital readout).

If it is the same as mine you have to connect (with ignition off) the number "1" plug socket to any earth ie. the socket on the top left hand side as it appears in the above photo.

Set the meter to 12v DC and use the appropriate scale.

You will probably have to connect a smaller pin to the actual multi meter lead/probe as the holes in the socket are very small. I connected a safety pin the the leads/probe and then pushed it in the socket. Once connected turn on ignition, dpruk said start engine, mine worked with just the ignition turned on, so they may differ.

The needle will start with a sweep and settle, then the codes should appear as either long or short sweeps of the hand on the meter. The longer sweeps represent 10,s and the shorter sweeps represent 1's if there is more than one fault the lower numbered faults are shown first.

For example, for the fault 51 you will get five long sweeps of the hand and one short sweep, for fault 24 two long sweeps followed by four short sweeps and so on.
It sounds difficult but it is really easy to see once you have started. The codes will just keep repeating so you dont have to disconnect it and start again.

once you have the numbers just look up on dpruk's list above to see what fault they represent. Then all you have to do is to replace the offending item/s If you can find it/them Laughing

when all the faults have been sorted disconnect the batteries/s for an hour or two, when all is well the meter will give a steady regular ticking and hopefully your ABS will be extinguished.

Hope that all makes sense. It is easier to do than to explain it.

See you plugged in Very Happy

emax

matpp · * Joined: 17 Sep 2003 Posts: 25 Location: Pyrenees France

Hi emax, thanks for your swift reply as the voltage meter and cables are sitting in the footwell and I'm dying to discover these fault codes!!

I've highlighted your instructions I don't understand in red.

As I see it then, connection 1 (top left) goes to earth but where does the voltmeter connect?

Thanks for you help Very Happy

emax · Posted: Thu Jul 30, 2009 21:06 Post subject:

Hello MTP

1) yes that is the the one to connect to.

2) Connect one end of the volt meter (Red I think), to the plug socket and then the other end to the earth (black). so that the voltmeter is in between the plug socket and the earth connection. Don't worry about making a wrong connection as i t will be apparent if you get it wrong way round.

I am not certain that all the connections are the same on every vehicle. If that one does not work try them all until you find the one that does. One of the sockets was the engine fault code finder on mine, if you find that one it will be a regular ticking.

3) As long as it is connected as above that is fine.

4) You will easily see it is working when it does.

5) Same as above (4)

6) the G sensor was the one that was at fault on mine, you will have to retrieve the codes to find out what the fault is with yours. so ignore this for a bit.

See you at lights out Laughing

emax

mikelotus · Newbie Joined: 29 Dec 2009 Posts: 5 Location: tamworth

Hi there i've got a problem with the abs light on my car and have tried all the suggestions as listed above but don't seem to get any faults out of the ECU as listed above.

I have tried all the different connectors as listed but can't get any readings.

Any idea's ?

The light comes on when the ignition is turned on goes out when the car starts and then comes back on after 45 seconds

HELP HELP !!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks

Mike

emax · Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 11:26 Post subject:

Hello ml

Did you have the ignition on when connecting multi meter?? Make sure that the probes from the multi meter are going into the connector block, the holes are very small, ensure a good earth. other than that I can't really offer any suggestions as to why there are no fault codes available.

Did you get it through MOT??

See you without your bulb Laughing

emax

dpruk · Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 0:48 Post subject:

when I did mine rather than putting the probe in the small plug hole, I put it in at the back easier to get a good connection that way. The plug will come out of its bracket by a clip top and bottom of the plug making it easier to put the probes in

bucketlover · Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 17:25 Post subject:

I'm lost, trying to get the fault codes up with the multi meter but all I get is a constant reading.
Can someone please tell me in dummy terms how I get the codes up.
I earthed out pin 1 to the body = is this right?
Then what to I do.
I've been on all day and am getting sick of my life Crying or Very sad

Thanks in advance Andy

emax · Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2010 18:07 Post subject:

hello bl

welcome to the clu Cool

b

This was for a 94 pajero 2.8, if you have a later model it may be different.

Set the multi meter to 12v, stick one/probe end in the chosen a plug socket, earth the other end/probe. If you get a constant voltage just try another socket as they seem to differ.

On mine there were only two sockets with pulses , there was either nothing or a constant voltage on the others.

See you with a much improved life Laughing

emax