The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners Club®

pajmanAl · Posted: Sat Aug 08, 2009 23:36 Post subject: Changing front wheel bearings

I needed to change the wheel bearings today, this is how I did it.....

firstly I put my new bearing seats in the freezer

next expose the hub, you will note that this is a mk2 and there is no free wheel assembly

Then remove the road wheel, be sure to support the car properly

you will then need to remove the caliper and its support bracket, this will need a 17 mm socket

and dont forget the 10mm bolt that secures the disc dust plate to the caliper and then hang the caliper out of the way

You will then need to remove the circlip and washer from the drive shaft and also undo the six 14 mm bolts securing the splined drive plate to the hub assembly

once you've done this pull it off and you will be left with a securing plate and two phillips screws
with an impact driver undo one...

then the other...

Then you need to undo and remove the locking ring, this turns anti clockwise for removal and a specialist tool is most helpful here but a mock up can be made

Now pullout the front bearing..

and then remove the hub assembly...

remove the rear seal from the assembly...

and then hook out the rear bearing...

clean everything thoroughly and then remove the bearing seats with a drift, the manufacturer has prvided three notches to ease this process

thoroughly clean the spindle and shaft assembly

and if necessary have somone check your work...

Drop the frozen bearing seats in to the hub assembly and using the old bearing seats hammer home, making sure they are all the way home.
pack the new bearings with grease and fit the rear one into the hub assembly, then fit the rear seal

refit the hub to the spindle and drive shaft, fit new front bearing and locking ring.

this should be tightened to 210 NM in order to preload the bearings and then undone and tightened again to 25nm
replace the securing ring and screws, tighten with impact driver and then replace splined drive plate and tighten, replace caliper and road wheel, test brakes and the road test.

pat self on back for saving yet more garage fees.

clean and stow all tools used and the wash hands and get changed before sitting on new leather couch with wife. Laughing

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angrydave · Posted: Sun Aug 09, 2009 1:47 Post subject:

Brilliant write up mate. Will help me out alot as before soon i think i may have to replace a wheel bearing :/.

Thanks buddy, also.. the dog looks ace Very Happy

Jimbro · Posted: Sun Aug 09, 2009 18:05 Post subject:

Superb write up mate
I've got a border collie too. Never thought about getting her to help me
Laughing

point blank · Posted: Fri Aug 21, 2009 21:40 Post subject:

Cheers Al, quality write ups like these are what help make the POCUK the place to be congrats

Darren99 · Newbie Joined: 28 Oct 2010 Posts: 5 Location: London

Is this the same for a free wheel assembly? I have a LWB 3.0 V6.

andyn666 · Posted: Thu Oct 28, 2010 22:31 Post subject:

Yes its the same but you'll have to remove the manual lockin hub first, but that's just as easy as removing the normal drive flange

offroader · * Joined: 10 Dec 2006 Posts: 22 Location: Shropshire

Thanks for the post, Shogun passed MOT today but with advisory on front bearing.

This will help when I have a look see. Very Happy

MK1Flo · Posted: Tue May 03, 2011 17:23 Post subject:

Cracking write up, what did you use to get off the hub locknut??

davembp · Posted: Thu May 05, 2011 11:00 Post subject:

2 bolts or pozi screwdrivers and a bar dose the job.

Si7 · Posted: Thu May 05, 2011 14:05 Post subject:

Great step by step procedure and well written. Cracking the 6x 14mm hub bolts first while the wheel is still on is a good move too.

Ivan challenger · * Joined: 18 Nov 2010 Posts: 13 Location: Stoke-on-Trent

Hi could you tell me how you tightened the locking ring to 210nm please?

V8 Dave · Posted: Sun May 27, 2012 22:34 Post subject:

I second this; I've looked all over for a locking ring tool. I think I'm going to have to make something!

Dmcmylor · Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 18:03 Post subject:

Any clues on how to tighten the locking ring to 210nm without a locking ring thing/gadget/tool? And the old seats just knocked through to the far side to remove them? Or should I just give up now and take it to a garage? Very Happy

hutchy · Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 18:12 Post subject:

i have an old socket with 2 steel pins i welded onto it,but what you have to remember that 210nm is only to seat the bearings properly you have to back it off to 0 and using a spring balance tighten to get the right tollerance (can,t remeber what it is) but i usually just torque it to 20/25nm on both sides so you don,t get any wander on the steering Wink

Dmcmylor · Posted: Mon Apr 22, 2013 18:28 Post subject:

Thanks Hutchy, when you say both sides I take it you mean both wheels? And do the old seats just knock straight through the hub to remove them? Trying to get it straight in my mind before tackling it as most simple jobs end up not being simple at all Very Happy