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Mitsu L200 still overheat after fitting new head


 
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iods
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Age: 35
Zodiac: Scorpio
Joined: 08 Feb 2012
Posts: 19
Location: Algeria

PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 15:29    Post subject: Mitsu L200 still overheat after fitting new head Reply with quote

hello everybody

I have a 2002 mitsubishi L200, I have fitted a new head , head gasket due to car overheating, i found out that old head got blown, anyway after gettin new head and head gasket I got new radiator too, new fuel pump .. now I got all problems sorted...car starting up at 1/4 turn, no problem with cold starting , hell of a power nd all that except that it still over heat when running on AC or when engine gets forced ... or simply when it's too hot outside (just for the record I'm from Algeria nd it's quiet hot in here)

I did the usual , checked all hoses and replace some of them, now not a single drop is lost but still it loses at least a pint everyday, and I think it blows air into the tank

so any ideas guys ?? I'm suspecting a cracked bloc but i dun wanna jump to conclusions

so ?

any help is much appreciated , thanks
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2014 15:29    Post subject: Google Ads keep the POCUK free to join!


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dopeydaz
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Joined: 13 Dec 2010
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 22:12    Post subject: Reply with quote

My shogun sport did the same, turned out to be a split EGR cooler.


Edit... didn’t look at the date of OP...
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Sparksie
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2018 2:23    Post subject: Reply with quote

I read the OP a couple of times, in case I was missing something, but you don't mention replacing either the water pump, or thermostat, which would have been my first move, when it first started to overheat.
Even if these items HAVE been replaced, it would still be worth checking them again.
Some modern aftermarket parts are disgraceful and you may find the impellor is loose on the pump shaft, or the vanes are not correctly shaped, or not large enough. Thermostats can be sticky, or maybe missing the air-bleed, making it difficult/impossible to fill the cooling system properly.
Radiators are not all the same, either, and one that fits may not necessarily be the right thing. The core needs to be of a similar construction to the original with at least the same number and diameter tubes and cooling fins.
Hope some of that helps.
If you DO have a cracked block, you should have other symptoms. Water trapped above the piston would make the engine VERY stiff and hard to start.
You may be able to detect combustion gasses in the header tank. The exhaust may be cleaner than usual, even if you can't actually see steam in it, with it being hot over there.
My money would be on a circulation problem, either because the pump is faulty, or there's an airlock that's gradually dissipating with each episode
Good luck

Sparksie
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