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Intermittent acceleration issue


 
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Radams87
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Age: 34
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 21, 2020 19:51    Post subject: Intermittent acceleration issue Reply with quote

Hi
Apologies if discussed elsewhere...
Can anyone point me to the culprit for this issue?

2006 Shogun Sport 2.5 TD 4d56.

On most occasions when accelerating hard past approx. 2500rpm in 1st / 2nd and more often than not in 3rd the car seems very sluggish. Gets to around 2500/3000rpm in good order then struggles to accelerate up to 4/4500rpm at the same pace. Seems particularly bad in 2nd gear.

On other occasions, less than often, the engine will accelerate up to 4500rpm quickly and progressively, normally I would say, and doesn’t feel as restricted.

Serviced recently and a new fuel filter installed about a week ago.

I have had the EGR off to look at the soot clogging but dare I say it, it didn’t seem to bad, no clogging and a thin(ish) layer of carbon dust.
If anyone has any thoughts or has seen this before then I would appreciate any pointers.
Thanks for any help.
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Radams87
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Age: 34
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Joined: 21 Mar 2020
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Location: London

PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2020 13:37    Post subject: Reply with quote

More info...
If I can keep the revs high (above approx. 2000rpm) and change gear quick enough then the acceleration above 3000rpm seems to be fine and unrestricted/not hesitant/not sluggish.
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Simon_W
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2020 21:01    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sounds like it could be air in the fuel system. If you've changed the fuel filter, that's a very likely cause of air ingress.

The filter needs the inner seal removed before fitting. Otherwise it doesn't sit properly in the housing and lets air in. The filter on the left has the inner seal removed. The one on the right hasn't.

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Radams87
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Age: 34
Zodiac: Capricorn
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Location: London

PostPosted: Wed Apr 22, 2020 22:53    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Simon,
Will take it off again and look, can’t think whether I took it off or not, seem to seat nicely either way.
More than like i’ll Have done it wrong.
Mind it was doing this before I changed the fuel filter.
Rory
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Radams87
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Age: 34
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2020 11:18    Post subject: Reply with quote

More info

This morning...
Took off fuel filter and reseated. All good
Took off EGR again and degreased. All clean
Put a lot of lubricant spray on waste gate actuator Vgt lever and moved up and down a fair bit. Quite rusted but now moving quite freely.

Quick drive and it is much more responsive and less sluggish. Gets up to high rpm in good order now.

However, using 2nd gear as a good test... the problem still exists (not quite as severely) when accelerating hard from around 1000rpm it still feels restricted reaching and above 3000/3500rpm.

So, accelerated to about 2300rpm (2nd gear) and then held it there for a couple of seconds and then tried to accelerate up to 4000 odd rpm again and it was fine.

Problem isn’t there so much in 1st or 3rd gears, if at all.

Does feel better after the jobs today but still not quite there. Anyone with any other thoughts?
Rory
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Simon_W
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2020 12:18    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it were me, I'd want to eliminate air as a possibility.  The fact that you've worked on the fuel filter and the problem has improved could indicate that there's an air ingress somewhere in the vicinity.  Does yours have a water trap?  If so is that sealed?  

I assume that when there's no load the problem isn't apparent.  So it's not worth putting in a clear inline fuel filter so that you could observe any air bubbles.

I would rig up a temporary supply of absolutely clean fresh fuel and run that directly into the pump, bypassing the entire fuel system.  An emergency fuel can and some new clear plastic tubing would do the trick.  You could put it on the front passenger floor well and have somebody hold it upright.  If it makes a difference, then it's a matter of working through the system until you isolate the fault.  Don't drive too far on the temporary supply as the return is going back to the main tank and the supply won't last long. Don't forget to take your tool kit!  Wink
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Radams87
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Age: 34
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2020 21:00    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for reply again Simon, appreciate it!

Fuel filter does have a water tap, and it is secure, no gaps and sealed correctly. Correct in assuming no apparent issue unless under load. Also had a good look at all pipes back to fuel tank and forward to pump and all looks in decent order.
It did it again tonight, in 3rd gear foot down from about 1500rpm and it was very sluggish and just would not go past 3000rpm, so foot off gas a little, hold at 3000 for a second or two and then foot down again and it sailed up to 4000 +. Probably shouldn’t have foot down in that scenario but there you go.

Need to get a few bits then if I decide to do the bypass fuel filter test.
It’s almost like there is a restrictor on the engine, or the turbo isn’t being told what to do properly? Dont know.
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Radams87
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 20, 2020 18:16    Post subject: Update Reply with quote

Quick update.

1) Bypass fuel filter to pump test done, not difference unfortunately.
2) Haven’t installed a boost gauge (but waiting for a WiFi OBdii reader to arrive and have app that can read turbo boost apparently so maybe that will negate need for actual plumbed in boost gauge - maybe)

Suspected the turbo solenoid to be at fault (its the original valve on 120,000 2006 model). The brown one next to EGR solenoid on top of rocker cover. New solenoids installed, which half fixed the problem. In fact the problem went away completely, turbo kicks in excellently and pulls all the way through the revs with no hesitation, and easily goes past 3000rpm even from low rpm in same gear.

However, after approx 10/15 minutes and when sitting at idle, the EML comes on and that is that, until engine shutdown and ECU reset, then repeat above scenario. Accompanying EML is complete power loss. But still driveable.

When EML light on, the wastegate actuator does not sit on the top adjustment screw it is as if the engine is off, so take off vacuum hose between wastegate actuator and brass vacuum line (at brass end) to find there is no suction coming through. Even when the EML is not on, the actuator visibly rocks gently with the engine rpm, so clearly not quite right.

So if it is the brown solenoid at fault then maybe the replacement is cheap rubbish or not the right thing, should be though, codes and oem numbers are correct. Or it’s nothing to do with it?

Old valve back on now to stop EML and complete power loss, for the time being.
Replacement valves from https://www.japanese4x4parts.co.uk/. Don’t know if anyone has any experience with this company?
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Radams87
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Age: 34
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Location: London

PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2020 18:09    Post subject: Reply with quote

Final update for anyone still interested.
The above issue has been solved.
EGR deleted, and valve clearance reset.
Now accelerating as good as new, no hesitation, no noises, no smoke.
Happy days.
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Radams87
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Age: 34
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Location: London

PostPosted: Sat Mar 27, 2021 13:23    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dear all

Another final update to this acceleration issue.

Having had the EGR deleted and valve clearances reset, some time ago, there was a marked improvement in performance. Against my better judgement, and from what I had read, I had thought my acceleration issue was fixed.

However, recently I had noticed the issue had ‘returned’, though in actual fact it had never gone away and the improvement from the EGR/valve work had masked this. I had also noticed very poor fuel economy on the motorways whilst never going above 60/65mph.

From what I had read over the year I have owned the sport I had come to believe it was an issue with the turbo wastegate actuator settings, but since the adjustment screws looked on inspection to be completely rusted into position I had ignored it, believing they wouldn’t be able to be moved and had hoped that other remedy’s might fix the issue (EGR, fuel filter etc).

This morning I removed all the gubbins around the turbo, derusted, and finally adjusted the top wastegate adjustment screw, inwards a couple of turns. The procedure and setting information I used is here:

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwjbv_fZudDvAhUHXsAKHceBBJgQFjAFegQIAxAD&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.vwt4forum.co.uk%2Fattachments%2Fl200-vgt-setup-procedure-pdf.178137%2F&usg=AOvVaw3a4lyHyZJZHImhtH0ksmVD

The outcome is amazing! Now the engine sounds much healthier, accelerates smoothly, progressively, and rapidly up to the top end with no hesitation, no smoke, no stuttering. It drives as I would expect this vehicle to drive, slow but powerful.

So I think, finally, the issue is resolved. Thanks to anyone who has posted on here, and in particular anyone who has posted info about the turbo screw adjustment being the culprit either on this forum or the L200 forum.

My only concern now, without knowing too much about mechanics, is that the engine may overheat or similar, if anyone knows about how turbo adjustment to improve performance may have negative effects then I would be very appreciative of any pointers.
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