The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners Club®

[Rob.ie]

Can anyone point me in the direction to a guide or the service pages referring to the changing of all the fluids in the transmission system for an auto LWB Shogun?

I have oils for both differentials, the transfer box and gearbox ... but no idea where to start or what level of difficulty to expect.  

Or if I should just leave it to a mechanic?

[Google]

[BenKenobi]

DIY - best possible choice - then you know it is done and done correctly.

I did post an extract from the manual which I think that you read, although Assassin has an 'update' the one I posted is the basic process, and yes you will use a lot of oil to do the job correctly - which scares many people off and also is how you know the garage didn't do it correctly - I wouldn't expect to get the ATF changed at a decent garage for much less than £150 given the time involvement and oil costs - and don't use Dexron II - this must be an SP3 rated oil like Millermatic or Mitsubishi's own - Millermatic is around £30 for 5 litres and you will need a minimum of 2*5 litres to do the job right. I bought 3 because I keep a litre in the back of the car - just in case - because SP3 spec isn't that easy to find on the shelf in most garages.

Transfer box and diffs are pretty straightforward to do, just make sure that you can get the level/filler plug out before you remove the drain, I ran around for 50 miles or so to get mine nice and warm before I did mine too.

[Rob.ie]

I have Millers for the lot - though I only bought 10 litres for the auto box.

I've never attempted this before though so I've no idea where to start looking for fill & drain plugs  

[BenKenobi]

For all things there is a first time  

I'm a bit pushed at the moment but I'll look to see what images I have later to see if I can ease your search ...

[Rob.ie]

Thanks Ben - appreciate it.

Currently searching the Australian forums for info/photos  

[assassin]

Ben meant 2 X 5 litres which is 10 litres. He just had a typo.

[BenKenobi]

curektomundo  

[assassin]

[size=12]Procedure sounds complicated, but isn't.

Remove the very front undertray.

Sit at the front of the vehicle facing it.

Look to the left hand side of the vehicle and you will see the two steel oil cooler pipes running from the gearbox to the rubber pipes to the oil cooler.

Disconnect the top rubber pipe from the connection to the top steel oil cooler pipe.

Place a bowl of at least 10 litres under the vehicle and aim the rubber pipe into it.

Get an assistant to sit in the vehicle and start the engine.

DO NOT REV THE ENGINE, LET IT IDLE, AND DO NOT RUN IT FOR MORE THAN 60 SECONDS AS THIS WILL DAMAGE THE TRANSMISSION.



[/size]

This will drain out most of the ATF from the auto box and torque convertor.

Reconnect the pipe and empty the sump by removing the autobox drain bung, this will remove any dregs, but more importantly, any sediment.

Measure how much ATF comes out and ensure it is over 7 litres.

Remove the ATF dipstick and out a small funnel in the dipstick tube, clean your measuring jug and measure out 7 litres and fill the autobox with 7 litres; in reality I just measure out 2 litres and throw in a full 5 litre container to give 7 litres.

Replace the dipstick and run the vehicle at idle again and leave for about 1 minute as this primes the torque convertor and priming pump, then put the selector into R and leave for 1 minute, don't forget to hold on the footbrake as the vehicle may lurch, then put it in N for 1 minute, then D for one minute, this should prime all the hydraulic circuits.

Take the vehicle for a run until the ATF is fully warmed, check the level and top up with tiny amounts until the ATF is between the hot marks on the dipstick, then add a little more until it is close to the top hot mark, but not over it.

Time? allow about 1 hour, but when you are experienced like many of us you can do it in 20-30 minutes.

[Rob.ie]

Doesn't sound too bad at all when its spelled out like that.  

Will the drain plug be obvious when underneath?

What about transfer box and diff's?

[BenKenobi]

The drain plug in the auto box is obvious, the transfer box plugs are a little obscure, the differentials are on the opposite side to the round turning thing that goes to the gearbox (not to the wheels)  about a third of the way up - obviously the drains are in the lowest point, they are also quite large.

Don't be tempted to attack them with adjustable spanners of any kind.

I've been looking through what I have to see if I have some decent images but haven't found any. If you struggle I'll go and take some pictures specifically - but probably not tonight. If I find anything in the between times I'll post it up.

[venn105]

Dont forget to undo the top up plug on diffs/transfer 1st before draining as if its seized or any issues your stranded without oil in  

6 sided socket is best bet as less chance of rounding

[Rob.ie]

Cheers Ben  

Last question for now - should I get some sealant for when I'm replacing the plugs or do they have re-useable washers that'll seal tight?

Thanks to the replies on here I'm now leaning towards trying this tomorrow if its dry ... just need to figure out where's level  

[venn105]

Just read ben said that in above posts must learn to read better and take in

[BenKenobi]

I replaced the 'washers' on mine, something I do out of habit on anything that has washers on drain / filling plugs. I never looked to see if they were crush washers - I think they are - if they are they can only be used once successfully, they were pennies anyhow.

PPS : Pay attention tot he torque of anything in alloy - you can easily overtighten - then you're in trouble. The plugs aren't mega tight - 35Nm or so on the diffs as I recall.

[Rob.ie]

Cheers Ben. Hopefully the main-dealers will have the washers I need tomorrow so.  

And thanks for trying Venn