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Installing remote-head Amateur Radio into a Shogun Mk4.


 
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RogerStenning
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Age: 59
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Location: Bromley area

PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2019 11:59    Post subject: Installing remote-head Amateur Radio into a Shogun Mk4. Reply with quote

I had an earlier posting that I managed to solve. This is the process from planning to final installation, and will be in a couple of parts.

This is part one, and covers the planning and procurement of parts/mounts required to install a Yaesu FT-8900R quad-band Amateur Radio transceiver into a Shogun Mk4 LWB.

It's amazing what's out there for the Shogun, online. There's the official workshop manual, and this makes planning the installation of equipment and accessories into the Shogun a lot easier than it otherwise might be. The manual can be found here: Shogun Mk4 Workshop Manual

It's making figuring out where to run the cables for the Amateur Radio kit that I'll be installing in the Shogun (hereinafter the Type Zero, or "Zero" for short  Very Happy  ) an absolute doddle for preparation.

One of the things I had in mind for this installation, was that there be no drilling required. If you put holes in cars, it reduces their value, and can cause problems later on, mechanically. So, no holes.

As a result of the electrical and trim diagrams, I now know that there is no way I should run cables inside the roof lining of Zero, due to curtain airbag charges in place up there. Those tend to react badly to extraneous current and frequency up close and personal, even within shielded cabling, so best to leave those darn things alone!

Instead, I have to run the cables along the floor line where the scuff plates meet the carpeting on the floor, around the centre pillar, up and under the drivers dash foot well, up the side of the centre console, and onto the mid-dash, to the mounting plates that I'll be installing (no drilling required, and see the attached diagram).



I'm a massive fan of the Brodit brand for mounting brackets for phones and radios in cars. They're well-made, reliable, and keep things fixed in place (unlike suction cups that fall off just when you don't want them to).

These are push and clip-on mounting plate solutions, and work wonderfully - I used Brodit mounts in the installation I had in a Mondeo I owned for a while. I was thus rather disappointed that there didn't appear to be Brodit mounts available here for my old Discovery 2td5, but it later transpired that either I hadn't been looking at the right retailers, or they had been out of stock, long term. Oh well. In any case, these are what I have on order for Zero:

For the radio head mounting:
Mounting bracket 853981
- this will be fitted to the left top of the centre console.

Mounting adaptor plate 215058
- Mounted to the mounting plate will be this adjustable angle bracket, onto which will be mounted:

Mounting plate 213053
- This mounting plate, and I'll be sticking the radio head unit and a microphone clip to that.

For the phone:
Mounting plate 653981
- This is the mounting plate for the phone, and will sit on the right top of the centre console.

Mounting adaptor plate 711089
- This is the mounting bracket for the Google Pixel 3a XL Android smartphone I have. I've already got cables, so don't been the much more expensive powered brackets they offer Smile

Power for the phone will be via a USB/cigarette lighter accessory socket adaptor and USB-3 to USB-C cable in the lower centre console. Or at least it will be, once I've rectified the lack of power to it. I think the existing add-on parrot bluetooth adaptor (allows hands free interface between phone and the car stereo), installed by a previous owner, has taken the wires away from there; should be an easy enough fix to sort out.

Power for the main body of the radio will be taken from behind the accessory socket in the load space (the boot!), in similar manner to how I installed the radio in the Disco. Cables will run into the load space via the vent plate on the lower trim panel in the boot, and to the mounting point for the radio.

The antenna will be mounted on a roof rail mounting (a Diamond K-501 that I'll get from ML&S (Diamond K-501 Roof Bar mount), with an antenna cable and connector assembly as yet to be chosen. Again, there will be no drilling required), with the coaxial cable running into the boot via the back door. Cable ties will be used to secure it in place within the boot area in its run to the radio main body.

I'm not going to get this done this week, sadly. It would be nice, but I have other tasks that need to be done first. This will likely get done over the next long weekend, which I have coming the weekend after this one coming. I'll try to remember to take photos of it all at that time.
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 04, 2019 11:59    Post subject: Google Ads keep the POCUK free to join!


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Mike Bishop
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Age: 38
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2020 12:25    Post subject: Re: Installing remote-head Amateur Radio into a Shogun Mk4. Reply with quote

RogerStenning wrote:
I had an earlier posting that I managed to solve. This is the process from planning to final installation, and will be in a couple of parts.

This is part one, and covers the planning and procurement of parts/mounts required to install a Yaesu FT-8900R quad-band Amateur Radio transceiver into a Shogun Mk4 LWB.

It's amazing what's out there for the Shogun, online. There's the official workshop manual, and this makes planning the installation of equipment and accessories into the Shogun a lot easier than it otherwise might be. The manual can be found here: Shogun Mk4 Workshop Manual

It's making figuring out where to run the cables for the Amateur Radio kit that I'll be installing in the Shogun (hereinafter the Type Zero, or "Zero" for short  Very Happy  ) an absolute doddle for preparation.

One of the things I had in mind for this installation, was that there be no drilling required. If you put holes in cars, it reduces their value, and can cause problems later on, mechanically. So, no holes.

As a result of the electrical and trim diagrams, I now know that there is no way I should run cables inside the roof lining of Zero, due to curtain airbag charges in place up there. Those tend to react badly to extraneous current and frequency up close and personal, even within shielded cabling, so best to leave those darn things alone!

Instead, I have to run the cables along the floor line where the scuff plates meet the carpeting on the floor, around the centre pillar, up and under the drivers dash foot well, up the side of the centre console, and onto the mid-dash, to the mounting plates that I'll be installing (no drilling required, and see the attached diagram).



I'm a massive fan of the Brodit brand for mounting brackets for phones and radios in cars. They're well-made, reliable, and keep things fixed in place (unlike suction cups that fall off just when you don't want them to).

These are push and clip-on mounting plate solutions, and work wonderfully - I used Brodit mounts in the installation I had in a Mondeo I owned for a while. I was thus rather disappointed that there didn't appear to be Brodit mounts available here for my old Discovery 2td5, but it later transpired that either I hadn't been looking at the right retailers, or they had been out of stock, long term. Oh well. In any case, these are what I have on order for Zero:

For the radio head mounting:
Mounting bracket 853981
- this will be fitted to the left top of the centre console.

Mounting adaptor plate 215058
- Mounted to the mounting plate will be this adjustable angle bracket, onto which will be mounted:

Mounting plate 213053
- This mounting plate, and I'll be sticking the radio head unit and a microphone clip to that.

For the phone:
Mounting plate 653981
- This is the mounting plate for the phone, and will sit on the right top of the centre console.

Mounting adaptor plate 711089
- This is the mounting bracket for the Google Pixel 3a XL Android smartphone I have. I've already got cables, so don't been the much more expensive powered brackets they offer Smile

Power for the phone will be via a USB/cigarette lighter accessory socket adaptor and USB-3 to USB-C cable in the lower centre console. Or at least it will be, once I've rectified the lack of power to it. I think the existing add-on parrot bluetooth adaptor (allows hands free interface between phone and the car stereo), installed by a previous owner, has taken the wires away from there; should be an easy enough fix to sort out.

Power for the main body of the radio will be taken from behind the accessory socket in the load space (the boot!), in similar manner to how I installed the radio in the Disco. Cables will run into the load space via the vent plate on the lower trim panel in the boot, and to the mounting point for the radio.

The antenna will be mounted on a roof rail mounting (a Diamond K-501 that I'll get from ML&S (Diamond K-501 Roof Bar mount), with an antenna cable and connector assembly as yet to be chosen. Again, there will be no drilling required), with the coaxial cable running into the boot via the back door. Cable ties will be used to secure it in place within the boot area in its run to the radio main body.

I'm not going to get this done this week, sadly. It would be nice, but I have other tasks that need to be done first. This will likely get done over the next long weekend, which I have coming the weekend after this one coming. I'll try to remember to take photos of it all at that time.


I think this is old version diagram, If I'm not wrong. Confused
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RogerStenning
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Age: 59
Zodiac: Cancer
Joined: 24 Aug 2019
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Location: Bromley area

PostPosted: Mon Jan 06, 2020 12:34    Post subject: Re: Installing remote-head Amateur Radio into a Shogun Mk4. Reply with quote

Mike Bishop wrote:
I think this is old version diagram, If I'm not wrong. Confused


Going on what I found when installed things, it appears to be the correct one for my 2007 SG-4 3.2 DI-D wagon  Very Happy
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