|
The Mitsubishi Pajero Owners ClubŪ
The Mitsubishi Pajero, Shogun, Montero, Challenger, Raider and EVO 4x4 Owner's Club
|
| View previous topic :: View next topic |
| Author |
Message |
mandel
Newbie
Age: 44
Zodiac: 
Joined: 12 Jun 2022
Posts: 1
Location: bristol
|
 Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2022 22:19 Post subject: Re: SUCCESS AT LAST! |
 |
|
| bmoseti wrote: |
After one year of silence, my 4m41 is now roaring. The signal wire from the immobilizer unit to the ECU (A yellow pink wire that slots into pin 52 of the ECU) had broken somewhere underneath the dashboard. In the one year of solution finding, I have made some key discoveries about the 2001-2006 pajeros with 4m41 DiD engines:
1. The immobilization only happens at the immobilizer box beneath the steering wheel. A working key and immobilizer set will work with any random ECU. As such, if you lose your chipped key or the immobilizer box fails for some reason, you do not have to change the ECU
2. ECUs from that generation are super resilient... I accidentally short-circuited the system several times, but the ECU still lived. The most damage I caused was two failed Mossfet transistors, which I was able to source from a scrap ECU and easily refit with a soldering gun.
3. The speed sensors, while they fail occasionally, are some of the most hardy parts of these cars. You can also run the car with just one injector speed sensor- one is there as a backup.
4. The injector pump is not as mysterious as we suspect. The Electronic governor especially operates like some variable resistor, hence nothing much in it to damage. I removed my electronic governor, stripped it entirely and reassembled it using a set of torx keys and a soldering gun. Refitting the electronic governor does not need calibration, it just slots in place.
5. The accelerator pedal position sensor is also a variable resistor that you can easily set with a multimeter.
6. The injector pump can run with all connectors out except the big 12 pin connector.
7. The truck can start and run with the accelerator pedal position sensor disconnected.
8. You dont need a scanner to pull out codes from these cars. Just a wire from pin one of the diagnostic connector to any grounded part of the car. The blink codes work perfectly and will not give a fault that is not present.
9. Removing the battery terminals for about 10 minutes clears all fault codes.
10. In case your blink codes are not working for some reason, a launch obd scanner gives accurate codes and clears everything including stored ABS fault codes.
11. The car can run with all vacuum hoses out, of course it won't be perfect but it will run.
12. You can correct a non-working fuel gauge by fixing dry joints behind the clock.
13. Your car will not run without proper bleeding regardless of how much you try to crank the engine. You will just be damaging your starter.
14. When working around the diesel filter, make sure to use a rag and container underneath it to prevent any fuel from getting to the starter. Starters hate diesel.
15. Removing the injector pump is a 15 minute job, with a 17 and 14mm spanner.
16. Timing the injector pump is easy, you just need to align the right marks. To avoid the need to remove the top cover, there is a provision for fitting a 10mm bolt onto the injector pump, which only aligns with right hole at TDC.
17. Electronic wiring diagrams are easily available on Russian websites... some charge a subscription fee of about $10 for a week. I, however, discovered that the specific 4M41 wiring diagrams are exact copies of the 4M4 diagrams we have in the freely-available users manuals.
18. To remove the immobilizer unit, you have to remove the steering wheel. To remove the steering wheel you just need one of those large torx or allen keys - either works. After loosening the torx screw holding the wheel in place, make sure to remove all electric sockets -these sockets are hidden under a plastic cover. Fail to remove them and you will rip out wires from the clockspring alongside your steering wheel. You also have to pull out the unit holding the turn signals to get to the one screw holding the immobilizer unit in place.
19. While the immobilizer signal wire gives a 12v reading, you cannot bypass it by just feeding 12v to this green wire.
20. The injector pump is very responsive once the immobilizer has gone off. You cant trick it into spitting out fuel by cranking the starter motor for longer than is necessary. If you cant see diesel spitting out of the four outlets after five seconds of cranking, just know that it won't release any fuel however long you try. Save your starter motor.
21. The electronic governor has voltage at pins 5 and 6, all coming from the ECU. Pin 1 feeds the stop-solenoid, but its voltage comes from a relay in the engine bay. Should be relay B25x if I remember - the one relay that sits alone in a square relay box. Also inside this box is the starter relay - one of the two big ones.
LAST BUT MOST IMPORTANTLY! Fault codes are the best guides to where the problem is. You have no reason to doubt that the ECU will throw non-existent codes. I would have saved months of heartache had I listened to the ECU telling me that I had a problem in the immobilizer line and focused my attention there instead of touching everything. In my defense, I knew nothing about diesel cars prior to this trouble, and the 'professionals' I brought to fix it are the ones who started this wild goose chase.
ALSO IMPORTANT, if you have got no-start issues with you Pajero/Montero/Shogun DiD with 4M41 motors from 2001-2006, reach out. I now know that engine-electronic system inside out.
Thanks |
Thanks very much for all the details.i have my pajero sitting for 2 years and can not start it.It just didnt start one day and I have 2 error codes:immo and fuel pump if I remember.I have fuel up to fuel pump but not going further.I wish to make a video with my troubles and upload on youtube,would you have a look and give me and idea what to do please? |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Google
Sponsor
|
| Posted: Sun Jun 12, 2022 22:19 Post subject: Google Ads keep the POCUK free to join! |
|
|
|
|
| Back to top |
|
|
desilvards
*
Age: 56
Zodiac: 
Joined: 01 Aug 2019
Posts: 12
Location: Pompey
|
| Posted: Tue Jul 19, 2022 0:01 Post subject: Re: SUCCESS AT LAST! |
|
|
| bmoseti wrote: |
After one year of silence, my 4m41 is now roaring. The signal wire from the immobilizer unit to the ECU (A yellow pink wire that slots into pin 52 of the ECU) had broken somewhere underneath the dashboard. In the one year of solution finding, I have made some key discoveries about the 2001-2006 pajeros with 4m41 DiD engines:
1. The immobilization only happens at the immobilizer box beneath the steering wheel. A working key and immobilizer set will work with any random ECU. As such, if you lose your chipped key or the immobilizer box fails for some reason, you do not have to change the ECU
2. ECUs from that generation are super resilient... I accidentally short-circuited the system several times, but the ECU still lived. The most damage I caused was two failed Mossfet transistors, which I was able to source from a scrap ECU and easily refit with a soldering gun.
3. The speed sensors, while they fail occasionally, are some of the most hardy parts of these cars. You can also run the car with just one injector speed sensor- one is there as a backup.
4. The injector pump is not as mysterious as we suspect. The Electronic governor especially operates like some variable resistor, hence nothing much in it to damage. I removed my electronic governor, stripped it entirely and reassembled it using a set of torx keys and a soldering gun. Refitting the electronic governor does not need calibration, it just slots in place.
5. The accelerator pedal position sensor is also a variable resistor that you can easily set with a multimeter.
6. The injector pump can run with all connectors out except the big 12 pin connector.
7. The truck can start and run with the accelerator pedal position sensor disconnected.
8. You dont need a scanner to pull out codes from these cars. Just a wire from pin one of the diagnostic connector to any grounded part of the car. The blink codes work perfectly and will not give a fault that is not present.
9. Removing the battery terminals for about 10 minutes clears all fault codes.
10. In case your blink codes are not working for some reason, a launch obd scanner gives accurate codes and clears everything including stored ABS fault codes.
11. The car can run with all vacuum hoses out, of course it won't be perfect but it will run.
12. You can correct a non-working fuel gauge by fixing dry joints behind the clock.
13. Your car will not run without proper bleeding regardless of how much you try to crank the engine. You will just be damaging your starter.
14. When working around the diesel filter, make sure to use a rag and container underneath it to prevent any fuel from getting to the starter. Starters hate diesel.
15. Removing the injector pump is a 15 minute job, with a 17 and 14mm spanner.
16. Timing the injector pump is easy, you just need to align the right marks. To avoid the need to remove the top cover, there is a provision for fitting a 10mm bolt onto the injector pump, which only aligns with right hole at TDC.
17. Electronic wiring diagrams are easily available on Russian websites... some charge a subscription fee of about $10 for a week. I, however, discovered that the specific 4M41 wiring diagrams are exact copies of the 4M4 diagrams we have in the freely-available users manuals.
18. To remove the immobilizer unit, you have to remove the steering wheel. To remove the steering wheel you just need one of those large torx or allen keys - either works. After loosening the torx screw holding the wheel in place, make sure to remove all electric sockets -these sockets are hidden under a plastic cover. Fail to remove them and you will rip out wires from the clockspring alongside your steering wheel. You also have to pull out the unit holding the turn signals to get to the one screw holding the immobilizer unit in place.
19. While the immobilizer signal wire gives a 12v reading, you cannot bypass it by just feeding 12v to this green wire.
20. The injector pump is very responsive once the immobilizer has gone off. You cant trick it into spitting out fuel by cranking the starter motor for longer than is necessary. If you cant see diesel spitting out of the four outlets after five seconds of cranking, just know that it won't release any fuel however long you try. Save your starter motor.
21. The electronic governor has voltage at pins 5 and 6, all coming from the ECU. Pin 1 feeds the stop-solenoid, but its voltage comes from a relay in the engine bay. Should be relay B25x if I remember - the one relay that sits alone in a square relay box. Also inside this box is the starter relay - one of the two big ones.
LAST BUT MOST IMPORTANTLY! Fault codes are the best guides to where the problem is. You have no reason to doubt that the ECU will throw non-existent codes. I would have saved months of heartache had I listened to the ECU telling me that I had a problem in the immobilizer line and focused my attention there instead of touching everything. In my defense, I knew nothing about diesel cars prior to this trouble, and the 'professionals' I brought to fix it are the ones who started this wild goose chase.
ALSO IMPORTANT, if you have got no-start issues with you Pajero/Montero/Shogun DiD with 4M41 motors from 2001-2006, reach out. I now know that engine-electronic system inside out.
Thanks |
A very in depth bit of work which I believe will help me with my own DiD 4M41
Many thanks
RDSx |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
Debsho
Newbie
Age: 57
Zodiac: 
Joined: 09 Aug 2021
Posts: 5
Location: plymouth
|
| Posted: Tue Aug 09, 2022 8:55 Post subject: Excellent new that you sorted your car |
|
|
I have the same model but a 2003 version LHD in France. I bought it a year ago and have had acceleration problems. I since discovered that the previous owner has fitted an accelerator cable which is a non mitsubishi part and I am now trying to found out which parts of the acceleration system are present and working and which need replacing. I understand why they took these steps as new parts are not easily avalable for this model and second hand parts are not available in france like they are in the UK. Does anyone know where I might find a guide to the acceleration system maybe a part by part guide so I can check the system out. The car is at a garage but the mechanic doesn't have a lot of time and I thought I would do some investiagation myself as I need to buy the parts.
Thank you in advance for any help you can offer me. |
|
| Back to top |
|
|
|
|
|
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum
You cannot attach files in this forum
You cannot download files in this forum
|
|
FAQ
Watched Topics
Memberlist
Usergroups
Register
Profile
Log in to check your personal messages
Log in
POCUK FaceBook Group
Calendar
